71

Below top left Nave and fan vaulting at Bath

Abbey Bottom Grand, impressive sweep of

the Royal Crescent, Bath

finds from the Temple of Minerva.
The adjacent 18th-century Pump
Room was the venue of an elegant
salon during Bath’s fashionable
heyday, and now offers a range of
refreshments, as well as samples of
the famous spa waters.
Turn left and then right out of
Abbey Churchyard into Bath Street.
At the end of this on the left is
Thermae Bath Spa 3 , a stunning
bath complex opened in 2006,
sporting a rooftop pool. Turn right,
past the Little Theatre, into St
Michael’s Place, then left and right to
pass the 19th-century Theatre Royal
4. Continue up Barton St into Queen
Square. Just past the square, on the
right, explore the world of Jane
Austen at the Jane Austen Centre 5
(open daily). Austen lived at various
addresses in Bath and set some of her
fiction here.
At the top of Gay Street stands The
Circus 6 , an elegant terrace designed
by John Wood and his son (also John
Wood) in the 18th century. Note the
528 individual carvings on the frieze
running along the buildings, including
serpents, theatrical masks and possibly
druidic and masonic symbols. From
here, Brock Street leads to the grandest
of Bath’s terraces, Royal Crescent, the
work of John Wood the Younger, and
fronted by a graceful sweep of lawn.
Have a look inside one of the houses at
No. 1 Royal Crescent 7 (closed Mon).

EAT AND DRINK

LACOCK

At the Sign of the Angel moderate

Antiques and open fires set the tone of

this ancient hostelry (with rooms, too).

Menu features traditional British cuisine.

6 Church St, SN15 2LB; 01249 730 230;

http://www.lacock.co.uk

BRADFORD-ON-AVON

Mr Salvats Coffee Room inexpensive

A unique, fun coffee house (c.1700) that

offers hot and cold snacks and more

substantial dishes in “olde worlde” style.

Town House, 44 St Margarets St, BA15

1DE; 01225 867 474; open Thu–Sun

The Tollgate Inn moderate

First-class gastro-pub in a village east of

Bradford, with a cosy ambience. The

menu features British dishes with a

Mediterranean slant. It also has rooms.

Ham Green, Holt, BA14 6PX; 01225 782

326; http://www.tollgateholt.co.uk

BATH

Sally Lunn’s inexpensive

The city’s oldest house and home of the

Bath bun, this popular eatery serves

salmon, duck breast and coq au vin.

2 North Parade Passage, BA1 1NX;

01225 461 634; http://www.sallylunns.co.uk

Demuths moderate

Classy vegetarian restaurant close to

the Abbey. The menu is inspired by

global tastes such as beetroot blinis,

falafel with tzatziki and Sri Lankan curry.

2 North Passage Parade, BA1 1NX;

01225 446 059; http://www.demuths.co.uk

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey

Retrace the route to The Circus and

walk up Bennett Street for the Georgian

Assembly Rooms 8 (open daily), built

in 1769 with a plain exterior but

sumptuous within. In the same

building, the Fashion Museum (open

daily) gives an entertaining overview of

costumes and clothing through the

ages. From here, head down Bartlett

Street, turning right and then left at

George Street for Milsom Street, one of

Bath’s main shopping areas. Bear left

into New Bond Street, turn right at

Northgate Street and then left at

Bridge Street to Pulteney Bridge 9 ,

the elegant shop-lined crossing over

the pretty River Avon, designed by

Robert Adam in the 1770s. To get the

best view, walk down Grand Parade,

past ornamental gardens and back to

Orange Grove, then return to car park.

ª Follow signs for A4 towards Bristol,

turn off onto A39. Fork right to Compton

Dando, turn left then right. Turn right

towards Woollard. Right onto A37, left

onto B3130 and left at a thatched toll

house. Follow signs to the stone circles.

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