Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

72


Above Stanton Drew Stone Circle in its
delightful rural setting

q The Mendip Hills
Somerset
Running for some 40 km (25 miles)
and not rising above 325 m (1,067 ft),
the Mendip Hills are a comparatively
low-key range, but they present a stark
contrast to Somerset’s gentle, rolling
landscape. They are characterized by
bare heathland over the higher areas,
and deep limestone gorges riddled
with cave systems which invite
further exploration (see left). The
Cheddar Gorge and Wookey Hole
(both open daily) can get busy and are
both somewhat overdeveloped, but
there’s lots to do here, especially for
children, and the caves are spectacular.
Unspoiled Ebbor Gorge, west of
Wookey Hole, is an important National
Nature Reserve and has some inviting
marked walking trails. The grassland
areas are criss-crossed by dry-stone

0 Stanton Drew Stone Circle
Stanton Drew, Somerset
After Avebury, this is the second
largest of England’s Neolithic stone
circle complexes and, like Avebury –
and unlike Stonehenge – it’s an
unfenced site, the irregular-shaped
rocks sprouting out of meadows
where cattle quietly graze. There are
three circles here, the largest at 112 m
(367 ft) contains 27 stones and is
aligned with a burial chamber known
as the Cove 500 m (1,640 ft) away, in
what is now a pub garden. Originally,
avenues of standing stones lead up to
the circles. Many of the stones have
been damaged over the years, so the
structure of the complex is not easy to
see. However, it remains a calming and
mesmerizing site. A local myth tells that
the stones are a wedding party whose
musicians were tricked by the devil
into playing on into the Sabbath, at
which point they were turned to stone.
ª Return to B3130 west and fork left
on B3114. Turn right on A368 and turn
left at Compton Martin to B3371 and
then right onto B3135, to the Cheddar
Gorge. Carry on to A371 east and fork

Right The winding B3135 through the
Cheddar Gorge Far right The sublime
symmetry of Wells Cathedral nave

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

Mystic Glastonbury
Nowhere else in England has quite
the same mix of history and New Age
romance, religion and superstition,
magic and myth, as Glastonbury.
Jesus’ uncle, Joseph of Arimathea, is
said to have visited here; the Chalice
Well on Chilkwell St (and Glastonbury
Tor) is supposed to have been the
hiding place of the Holy Grail. In the
grounds of the Abbey, it is claimed
that King Arthur is buried alongside
Guinevere. Above the town, ley lines
are said to cross on Glastonbury Tor.
Believe it or not, there’s something
special about Glastonbury.

WHERE TO STAY

THE MENDIP HILLS
Wookey Hole Inn moderate
This Inn provides funky accommodation
with a young Bohemian ambience. It
also offers a great selection of zesty
Belgian beers.
Wookey Hole, BA5 1BP; 01749 676 677;
http://www.wookeyholeinn.com
WELLS
Canon Grange inexpensive
Enjoying a prize location opposite
Wells Cathedral, this period-furnished
B&B has five rooms, friendly, helpful
hosts and good breakfasts. Reserve
ahead for a room facing the cathedral.
Cathedral Green, BA5 2UB; 01749 671
800; http://www.canongrange.co.uk
GLASTONBURY
The George and Pilgrim moderate
Reputedly haunted and full of character
and history, this inn has been in
business for 500 years. Some rooms
have four-posters and there is a choice
of bars for relaxing and eating.
1 High St, BA6 9DP; 01458 831 146;
http://www.relaxinnz.co.uk

left at Draycott, back to B3135 and on
to Priddy. Fork right here for Ebbor
Gorge and Wookey Hole. Park on site.

VISITING THE MENDIPS

The B3135 runs through the Cheddar
Gorge which offers rock climbing,
caving and nature walks (01934 742
343; http://www.cheddarcaves.co.uk). Look
out also for authentic Cheddar cheese –
the production process can be viewed
at Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company
(01934 742 810; http://www.cheddargorge
cheeseco.co.uk). Ebbor Gorge (with car
park) has several nature-filled walks –the
area is famous for bats, butterflies and
mosses and lichens; carry on east to
Wookey Hole (01749 672 243; http://www.
wookey.co.uk). This has many indoor
attractions that will appeal to kids.
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