Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

86 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

5 Hughenden Manor

High Wycombe, Bucks; HP14 4LA

Time has not stood still at Hughenden

Manor, despite access up a steep,

unpaved and rutted track (house and

garden open Mar–Sep: Wed–Sun pm; park

open daily all year; 01494 755 565; http://www.

nationaltrust.org.uk). The country home

of Queen Victoria’s trusted Prime

Minister Benjamin Disraeli (1804–81)

has seen some alterations, but a few

rooms are as they would have been in

“Dizzy’s” day. The gardens recreate an

original design by his wife, Mary Anne.

Mementoes, books and paintings bring

the interior alive but low lighting, while

kind to furnishings, can be less kind to

eyes. There are some beautiful walks in

the surrounding parkland with

glorious views of the countryside.

ª Rejoin the A4128 towards High

Wycombe. In town, follow signs to A40

west. Turn left at Pedestal roundabout to

West Wycombe. After village, turn right,

past caves entrance, for free parking.

6 West Wycombe

Bucks; HP14 3AH

West Wycombe’s main attractions are

found at West Wycombe Park (Apr–Aug:

open Sun–Thu; house open Jun–Aug). The

Italianate house is set in landscaped

gardens dotted with follies, statues

and ornamental lakes. The estate is

also home to the Hellfire Caves (open

daily; http://www.hellfirecaves.co.uk), excavated

in the 1740s on the orders of Sir

Francis Dashwood and running nearly

1 km (over half a mile) underground

under West Wycombe Hill. See the

Gothic “church” entrance and descend

dank passages through the

Banqueting Hall, past chambers with

portrayals of members of Dashwood’s

infamous Hellfire Club (1749–60). The

final destination is the “Inner Temple”,

across the “River Styx”. Here were held

the bacchanals of the club, whose

members included such luminaries as

the then Prince of Wales, the Marquis

of Granby, and artist William Hogarth.

Despite tales of devil worship, the main

activities were probably drinking and

pornography. Not suitable for anyone

with claustrophobia, the caves are

reputed to be haunted by the spectre

of a steward of the Hell Fire Club who

kept a tally of drinks consumed. On the

hilltop above the caves stand the

imposing Dashwood Mausoleum and

the distinctive Church of St Lawrence,

its tower topped by a large golden

sphere that is said to served in the

past as a venue for covert meetings.

ª Take A40 through Piddington and

turn left, signed Bolter End. Cross B482

to Fingest. It is possible to fork right here

for the pretty village and pub at Turville.

Otherwise turn right, then right again

onto A4155 to Henley-on-Thames.

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND WEST WYCOMBE

Frog Inn inexpensive–moderate

Pretty family-run inn with attractive

ensuite rooms and rural views. The inn is

situated directly south of Fingest, close

to Turville. Also serves good food.

Skirmett, RG9 6TG (8 km/5 miles west of

West Wycombe); 01491 638 996;

http://www.thefrogatskirmett.co.uk

HENLEY-ON-THAMES

Milsoms Hotel moderate

In a listed, red brick former bakery

above the Loch Fyne Bar and Grill (see

right). Five smallish, tasteful en suite

rooms. Kippers for breakfast!

20 Market Place, RG9 2AH; 01491 845

789; http://www.milsomshotel.co.uk

Hotel du Vin moderate-expensive

This boutique hotel, part of a small chain,

has 43 luxurious rooms offering style,

attention to detail and bistro cooking.

New Street, RG92BP; 01491 848 400;

http://www.hotelduvin.com

Red Lion Hotel expensive

This red brick 16th-century inn by the

bridge has 35 substantial, well-furnished

rooms, some with river views.

Hart Street, RG9 2AR; 01491 572 161;

http://www.redlionhenley.co.uk

Above The gardens and rear of Hughenden

Manor, once Disraeli’s country home

VISITING HENLEY-ON-THAMES

Parking

On the way in, follow signs to short-stay

parking (maximum three hours) on

Market Street or Gray’s Road.

Tourist Information

King’s Arms Barn, Kings Road, RG9

2DG; 01491 578 034

Thames Cruise

To hire self-drive (or even chauffered)

motor launches for relaxing trips along

the river; or take a scheduled cruise, try

Hobbs of Henley on Station Rd (01491

572 035; http://www.hobbs-of-henley.com).

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

Below left The “Royal River” running through the

heart of Henley-on-Thames Below right The half-

timbered Old Granary, originally a warehouse