Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

92

1 Beachy Head

Eastbourne, East Sussex; BN20

The white chalk cliffs of Beachy Head,

set against the deep blue sea, are an

awesome sight, as though the South

Downs have just been snapped off

to let the English Channel through.

At the cliff ’s giddy edge, look down to

the lighthouse 162 m (530 ft) below.

The Beachy Head Countryside Centre

(www.beachyheadcountrysidecentre.co.uk)

and car park has displays about the

history and nature of the area. A little

way along the loop road, past Birling

Gap (more excellent views) and close

to the A259, is the Seven Sisters

Sheep Centre (open Mar–Sep: Sat & Sun

all day; Mon–Fri pm only) where young

children can feed and pet the sheep.

ª Head to the A259 and turn left. At

the Seven Sisters Country Park, turn

right (on a sharp left bend) past the

small chalk white horse on the left and

through Litlington. Turn left down

Lullington Road, signed to Alfriston,

then left and left again. Park in car

park on left on way into village.

3 Berwick

East Sussex; BN26 6SZ

The ancient St Michael and All Angels

Church was decorated in 1943 with

paintings by Bloomsbury Group artists,

Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell, and

their son Quentin Bell. The Bloomsbury

Group were avant-garde intellectuals,

writers and artists who first met in

Bloomsbury, London in 1905 to share

and promote their philosophical and

artistic ideas. Other notable members

included writers Virginia Woolf and

Lytton Strachey, critic Roger Fry and

economist John Maynard Keynes.

In 1916 Vanessa and Duncan moved

to nearby Charleston (open Mar–Oct;

closed Mon), a lovely 18th-century

farmhouse which became the set’s

country meeting place. Tours give an

inspiring insight to the group’s life.

ª Head west on the A27, turn right

through Glynde. At the llama farm, the

road winds left past Glyndebourne, the

opera venue. At the B2192 go left for the

A26 to Lewes. Park on left over bridge.

Above The chalk cliffs at Birling Gap, near

Beachy Head

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

2 Alfriston

East Sussex; BN26 5TA

The most attractive village in Sussex

has a High Street of handsome old

inns, shops and teahouses, and a large

green with the medieval thatched

Clergy House (closed Tue, Fri) by the

river. Shopping in town, buy old-time

music from Music Memorabilia, and

pack a picnic from the excellent deli

in the old Post Office and Village Store

to take on a hike in Cuckmere Valley.

Follow the footpaths along the tidal

Cuckmere River as it meanders to the

sea, supporting a wide variety of wild

birds, butterflies and plants.

ª Backtrack north out of village, but

carry straight on to A27. Turn left, then

first left for Berwick and fourth left for

Charleston, signposted after Selmeston.

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

4 Lewes

East Sussex; BN7 2QS

Tom Paine (1737–1809), “Father of the

American Revolution”, lived in this

feisty county town, which today is

such a good place to shop that it has

its own currency. Spend “Lewes

pounds” in craft shops and galleries

such as the Sussex Guild Shop

(Southover Grange; 01273 479 565). Take

a break at Pelham House (see right) for

tea in a sculpture garden. Get a taste

of history in the 14th-century castle

(closed Mon in Jan) and walk down the

High Street and across the bridge to

visit Harvey’s Brewery.

ª Follow signs for A27 (Brighton). Turn

left onto B2123 to coast at Rottingdean,

and right onto A259, then Marine Drive.

At pier turn right, and follow “P” signs to

North Laine car parks.

WHERE TO STAY

BEACHY HEAD

Birling Gap Hotel inexpensive

The splendid clifftop location is a key

feature of this Victorian colonial villa.

Seven Sisters Cliffs, East Dean,

BN2 0AB; 01323 423 197;

http://www.birlinggaphotel.co.uk

BRIGHTON

Brighton Wave moderate

In the heart of trendy Brighton, this

small and friendly boutique hotel by the

sea epitomizes the style of the town.

10 Madeira Place, BN2 1TN; 01273 676

794; http://www.brightonwave.com;

minimum two-night stay at weekends

AROUND BRIGHTON

Manor Farm inexpensive

On the South Downs Way this flint

farmhouse has three simple rooms.

Poynings Rd, BN45 7AG (13 km/

8 miles left off the A281 from the

A23); 01273 857 371;

http://www.poyningsmanorfarm.co.uk;

open May–Oct

Below The ancient George Inn, Alfriston, first

licensed in 1397 Below right Straw bales on

a farm near Lewes, East Sussex

VISITING BRIGHTON

Parking

Park in one of the North Laine car parks,

on Church Street or North Road, or in

Trafalgar Street, near the train station.

Tourist Information

Royal Pavilion, BN1 1EE; 0906 711

2255; http://www.visitbrighton.com