Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

95


Above Dominating the skyline, the turrets
and towers of Arundel Castle

EAT AND DRINK

DITCHLING
Chestertons inexpensive
More than just a tea shop, this is
a fabulous deli selling local produce.
1 High Street, BN6 8SY; 01273 846 638
AMBERLEY
The Sportsman inexpensive
This country pub at the back of the
village is popular with South Downs
walkers for its views. Serves good food
and has five ensuite rooms.
Rackham Rd, BN18 9NR; 01798 831 787
ARUNDEL
The Black Rabbit moderate
The setting beside the River Arun with
views across to the castle made this
pub famous. Its good food, service and
long bar have maintained its popularity.
Mill Road, BN18 9PB; 01903 882 828;
http://www.hall-woodhouse.co.uk
Swanbourne Lodge Tea Rooms
inexpensive
Beautiful building by the lake serving
snacks and refreshments.
Mill Road, BN18 9PA; 01903 884 293

9 Arundel
West Sussex; BN18 9AB
Dating from the Norman conquest
but largely Victorian, Arundel Castle
(open Apr–Oct; closed Mon except in Aug
and bank holidays) dominates this
pleasant market town of antiques
shops and tearooms – the oldest of
which is 16th-century Belinda’s in
Tarrant Street. Try a 1-hour cruise on
the River Arun from Arundel Boatyard
(open Mar–Oct) by the Riverside Tea
Gardens, or hire a motor boat. Carry
on along Mill Road past the car park to
Swanbourne Lake and hire a rowing
boat before visiting Swanbourne
Lodge Tea Rooms for a restorative
cream tea. Glide through reed beds
and waterways on a boat safari at the
wonderful Arundel Wildfowl and
Wetlands Centre (open daily).
ª Return up A284, then A29 towards
Pulborough. At Bury Hill turn left to
Bignor (signed) and carry on past
Roman Villa and Sutton to A285. Turn
right to Petworth and central car park.


grounds were designed by Capability
Brown. The house holds the National
Trust’s biggest art collection, with
works by JMW Turner. The town itself
has a reputation as an antiques centre,
and the dealers’ wares are like museum
pieces. In the High Street is a museum-
piece, delightful Petworth Cottage
(open pm only, Tue–Sat), kept in a time
warp at 1910, when it was occupied by
Mary Cummings, a local seamstress.
ª Take the A272 to Midhurst. There is
a car park on the left at the road
enters town, or park on Main Street.

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

impressive hotel (see left). There is a
useful village shop by the Black Horse
pub. Several hours can be enjoyably
spent at Amberley Working Museum
(open mid-Mar–mid-Oct: Wed–Sun; daily
during school holidays) in a nearby
former chalk pit where craftsmen
include broom, clay-pipe and
walking-stick makers, plus lime kilns
and displays of historic transport.
ª Continue along the B1239 to join
the A284 to Arundel. Park by the river
on Mill Road, opposite castle entrance.


Above An example of a half-timbered house,
Petworth, West Sussex


0 Petworth
West Sussex; GU28 OAE
Petworth town is dominated by the
vast Petworth House and Park (open
Mar–Nov: Sat–Wed) whose extensive


Right An antiques shop on the steep
High Street, Arundel

The South Downs Way
This walking route runs for more than
160 km (100 miles) along the ridge
of the Downs from Eastbourne to
Winchester in Hampshire. It takes 6–9
days to complete, but can be done in
handy stages at weekends. The route
is a bridleway, so horse riders and
cyclists can enjoy it too. Footprints
of Steyning does baggage transfers
(01903 813 318; http://www.footprintsofsussex.
co.uk). For shorter loop walks, see
http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/Southdowns.
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