The Wall Street Journal - 07.03.2020 - 08.03.2020

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HERB GOLDSMITH
1927—

Members Only Mogul


Hit Gold With Jackets


H


erb Goldsmith was looking
for a new brand for his
clothing business in the
1970s when he noticed a sign at
his country club: Members Only.
Perfect, he thought.
All the New York-based entre-
preneur needed was a garment
worthy of the label. At a mens-
wear shop in Munich, he spotted a
jacket with epaulettes and a
Nehru-style collar. He made a
sketch and then designed a varia-
tion with a strap to hold the collar
shut. The fabric was a shiny
chintz. It came in colors including
rust, camel, robin’s egg blue, teal
and pewter.
Mr. Goldsmith, who died Feb. 22
at age 92, had the biggest hit of
his career. The Members Only
jacket was a strong seller for most
of the 1980s and has a lingering
retro appeal. (It popped up in the
“Sopranos” and “Will & Grace” TV
series.) On the advice of one of his
daughters, Mr. Goldsmith hired
Anthony Geary, a star of the soap
opera “General Hospital,” to ap-
pear in ads. Female admirers of
the actor prodded their husbands
or boyfriends to buy the jacket,
Mr. Goldsmith said.
Fashion was show business, said
Mr. Goldsmith, an amateur actor
during his college years. “You’re
the director,” he told salespeople.
“Those garments are the actors.
Your showroom is your set, and
the buyers are the audience.”
The Gatlin Brothers, country
music crooners, also appeared in
Members Only ads. By 1986, how-
ever, Mr. Goldsmith feared celeb-
rity endorsements were getting
stale. An advertising agency sug-
gested something radically differ-
ent: Public-service ads on TV and
radio to discourage use of illegal
drugs, with a brief mention of the
Members Only brand at the end.
In one of those ads, New York
Yankees manager Lou Piniella in-


toned: “If you’re dumb enough to
take drugs, you’ll never be a mem-
ber of my club.”
In another, a New Jersey Nets
basketball star, Buck Williams,
said: “You want to wreck your life
with cocaine? Then I got news for
you, buddy, you’re a loser.”
Mr. Goldsmith saw the ads as a
gamble. They paid off, both in
higher jacket sales and accolades
from people who liked the mes-
sage, including Nancy Reagan, who
sent him a thank-you note.

H


erbert Martin Goldsmith
was born Sept. 3, 1927, in
New York’s Bronx borough
and grew up there and in Brooklyn.
His father was a traveling sales-
man dealing in men’s coats. His
mother was a glamorous dresser.
In a 2012 memoir, “Only the
Best Will Do!” he recalled being a
“lousy student, sorely lacking in
discipline” in high school. Still, he
was persuasive enough to win a
job announcing high-school sports
scores on a radio station. When he
didn’t know scores, he sometimes
made them up.
Shortly after World War II, the
U.S. Army shipped him to Italy,
where he was assigned to work in

BYJAMESR.HAGERTY a kitchen. He escaped that drudg-
ery by talking his way into a job as
an Armed Forces radio DJ, who
took requests and nicknamed him-
self the Night Watchman.
Back home, he used the GI Bill
to pay his way through Long Island
University, where he acted in plays
and met Dolores Turkel. They mar-
ried in 1952.
After graduating, he failed to es-
tablish a career in acting or as a
creator of TV shows. So he went to
work for his father, by then a part-
ner in a maker of men’s coats,
Chief Apparel. The younger Mr.
Goldsmith expanded the business
by going on the road to sell mer-
chandise to mom-and-pop clothing
stores.
After his father died, Mr. Gold-
smith clashed with his father’s
partner and decided to form his
own business. With a friend, Edwin
Wachtel, he bought a clothing im-
porter, Europe Craft Imports Inc.,
for $15,000.
They found sewing operations in
Germany, Belgium and Italy for
leather jackets, tight “skinny rib”
sweaters, hip-hugger ladies pants
and a line of suits endorsed by the
actor Telly Savalas, whose starring
role in the “Kojak” TV series failed
to ignite sales. When labor costs
soared in the wealthier European
countries, Mr. Goldsmith found
suppliers in Yugoslavia and Hong
Kong.
Marcade Group Inc. bought Eu-
rope Craft in 1987. Mr. Goldsmith
stayed with the company for about
five more years.
Dolores Goldsmith died in 2009.
Mr. Goldsmith is survived by his
second wife, Myrna, three daugh-
ters and four grandchildren.
After leaving the garment busi-
ness, he became an investor in and
producer of Broadway shows, in-
cluding “Glengarry Glen Ross” and
“The Two & Only!”


 Read a collection of in-depth
profiles atWSJ.com/Obituaries

costs. Former colleagues said Mr.
Creighton, who died Jan. 29 at 87
years of age, usually persuaded peo-
ple he faced at the bargaining table
that they shared common interests.
He met his wife Janet at Ohio
State while both were students
there, and they married in 1960. Af-
ter working for a time in Chicago
and Miami, he was recruited by
Weyerhaeuser to work in its real-
estate business.
Mr. Creighton retired from Wey-
erhaeuser in 1997. The next year, R.
Thomas Buffenbarger, retired presi-
dent of the International Association
of Machinists and Aerospace Work-
ers, which represented employees at
both Weyerhaeuser and United who
worked for Mr. Creighton, recom-
mended him to executives at United
Airlines. —Patrick McGroarty

JACK CREIGHTON
1932—

Negotiator Guided


Firms Through Crises


T


he adversaries that gave Jack
Creighton his reputation as a
tough but fair negotiator in-
cluded machinists at United Air-
lines and advocates for the north-
ern spotted owl.
As the first nonfamily member to
run Weyerhaeuser Co. in the 1990s,
he led the timber industry’s opposi-
tion to environmentalists seeking to
preserve forested habitat for the rare
owl. Under a landmark court deci-
sion, millions of acres of owl-nesting
habitat were eventually put off limits
to loggers. Lumber prices soared,
boosting Weyerhaeuser’s bottom line.
At United Airlines, where Mr.
Creighton served as interim CEO at
a difficult time for the industry after
the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks,
he won concessions from pilots and
other workers as the carrier cut

KATHERINE PHILLIPS
1972—

Professor Was a Role


Model to Students


T


aking a bus from Chicago’s
South Side to a largely
white magnet school made
Katherine W. Phillips a lifelong
advocate for the importance of
diversity in education.
Ms. Phillips, a professor and
former senior vice dean at Co-
lumbia Business School, gained
renown for research on how or-
ganizations can manage and max-
imize hiring of employees with
diverse backgrounds.
“She was proud of helping
change the conversation around
diversity,” said her husband Da-
mon Phillips, who is also a pro-
fessor at Columbia Business
School. “She worked hard to vali-
date people who looked different
from other people.”
Ms. Phillips, who died of breast

cancer on Jan. 15 at 47 years old,
took as much pride in her work
with students as she did in her
research, said Adam Galinsky, a
colleague at Columbia Business
School who said he often called
her his big sister.
While she was vice dean, Mr.
Galinsky said African-American
administrators at the school
would bring their daughters just
to see Ms. Phillips in her office. “I
think she understood the sym-
bolic power of being vice dean.”
Ms. Phillips taught thousands
of students who are now leaders
in companies and governments
world-wide. Her courses focused
on leadership and managing
teams, decision making, negotia-
tions and diversity.
—Patrick Thomas

OBITUARIES


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