D2| Saturday/Sunday, March 7 - 8, 2020 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.
WE LOOK TO TRENDSpartly because perpetually wearing
the same thing would be boring, and partly because fashion
can help us analyze our culture. In a season overshadowed
by the encroaching coronavirus, many fashion designers
showed looks concerned with protection. From the Row’s
charcoal head wraps to the hooded vinyl dress at Balenciaga,
this clothing is intended to shelter us—whether that’s from
rising oceans or disease or just your average November chill.
At times, the masks on the runway—like Marine Serre’s
white lace and black versions and the armor-like headgear
and hoods at Paco Rabanne—more directly mirrored the sur-
gical masks worn by some vigilant editors. Most of these
creations were designed well before Covid-19 began to
spread, so reading too much into them would be a mistake,
suggesting that precognition was at work.
Still, what is more mystical than the creative process? Ales-
sandro Michele lifted the veil slightly on Gucci’s atelier in a fas-
cinating show in Milan, where guests watched the team dress
models behind a translucent scrim. In a WhatsApp message to
invitees, Mr. Michele included a pointed photo of a clothing tag:
“Gucci: Façonnier de Rêves.” And brandsaredream-makers:
Convincing reveries pervaded the month of shows, including a
virtuosic dance performance choreographed by Karole Armit-
age at Marc Jacobs and a pleasingly bourgeois 1970s flashback
cut through with bondage at Saint Laurent. One last takeaway
for stressful times? We might be better off together: Models
walked companionably down the runway in twos and threes at
Chanel, Thom Browne and Emporio Armani.—Rory Satran
WOMEN’S FALL 2020 TREND REPORT
We Can’t Stop
Talking About...
TAKE ME TO CHURCH
Kanye West invited Paris
Fashion Week types to one
of his Sunday Service
concerts at a historic theater.
GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE
In Milan, Prada announced
that Raf Simons would be
joining Miuccia Prada as co-
creative director of the brand.BLONDIE MOMENTS
Debbie Harry served as a
muse for Junya Watanabe and
supplied the live soundtrack
for Coach (pictured above).
CAUTION, MEET HYPE
As protective face masks
became popular, so too did
street-style looks that
incorporated them.THE PELOSI EFFECTWhether or not they were directly inspired by the buzzed-
about red coat the Speaker of the House has worn, designers are pushing powerful
scarlet outerwear. From left: a high-necked option atSalvatore Ferragamo;
Michael Kors’s military version;Proenza Schoulersees red; a verging-on-orange
take atHermès;Saint Laurent’s lady in red.STYLE & FASHION
THE ONE
SHEET
Designers in New York, London, Milan
and Paris balanced stress with strength
FRINGE THEATERCome fall, we’ll all have strips swishing behind us. From left: thin leather strings complete a neat
Diorlook; an electric ensemble atBottega Veneta; a fringe-y skirt is counterbalanced by a tailored blazer atPrada;
evening wear gets piecey atJil Sander; a Technicolor coat atGabriela Hearststirs with movement.SLEEVES NO ONE WOULD CALL SLIMVoluminous arm puffs haven’t looked so
fresh since their leg-of-mutton heyday in the 19th century. From left: balloon
sleeves atChloé; poofy arms balance out an LBD byChanel;JW Anderson’s
generously cut winter-white coat;Rodarte’s sweet baby-blue blouse; giant sleeves
jazz up a simple white look atMaxMara.CATWOMAN CHARMSleek, dark looks anticipate
the 2021 film starring Zoë Kravitz. From left: a skinny
suit atBalenciaga;atDolce & Gabbana, a bit more
skin;Fendi’s leather vision;Giorgio Armani’s
nighttime take;Louis Vuittongoes cropped.LE PLAID TOTALETartan lacked discretion, stealing
attention in head-to-toe outfits. From left: a nipped-
waist getup atMarc Jacobs;Miu Miumixes and
matches;Victoria Beckhamsquares up; atVersace,a
“Clueless” vibe;Burberry’s ladylike mélange.BFA (DEBBIE HARRY),GETTY IMAGES (FACE MASK)NIGHT AT THE OPERA
One of the season’s
most surprising trends
was elbow-length
gloves, which looked
freshest when layered
unexpectedly over long
sleeves.FendiThe RowValentinoGivenchySaint LaurentMAXMARA.COM