Bloomberg Businessweek USA - 09.03.2020

(Barré) #1
in central Italy; it starts with a sin-
gle loop of pasta rolled and pulled by
hand so it multiplies. There are now
classes at Sfoglina on how to make su
filindeu, a noodle typically reserved
for a handful of people on the island
of Sardinia and considered by some
to be the most mysterious and rare
pasta in the world. It is created from
thick cords of d
and pulled into 25
even thinner tha
name translates as
But you don’t ne
that. Just keep the
tip of your tongue.

Shiso so


Soba fanatics have
been eagerly await
Sarashina Horii, a
beloved Japanese c
open in New York t
noodles there are prized because
rom the core of
ds, which makes
y soft and delicate.
pearly white original
staurant will serve
ored ones made with
such as shiso, yuzu,
sesame.

alsamic


ibbons


like a 1980s power lunch
a new experiment from

Fortuna
Nicotra,
executiv
the ven
in New York. When
he added balsamic
to the dough, he
discovered that the
acidity created a
very silky type of
noodle. He serves
them simply with
butter and cheese
to complement the
sweet, tangy vinegar.

Lumache


The shell-shaped
lumache— Italian
for “snails”—does a
hero’s job of holding
sauce in its crevices.
At the buzzy new Da Toscana in New
York, Eataly alum Michael Toscana
makes his in-house and serves it
with roasted tomato sauce and
stracciatella cheese.

ate


errated
extended
corkscrew, also making it a superior
choice for catching sauces. Chef
Nick Accardi of New York’s Tavolino
creates a version with tumminia
flour, a stone-ground ancient grain
native to Sicily. It pairs especially well
with pesto.

Takasumen


These chewy ramen noodles are
thicker than conventional ones—
they look more like tagliatelle pasta
than an Asian noodle. At Sanpoutei
in New York, the strands are made
downstairs daily with flours
imported from Japan, then
aged to lower moisture
content so they can
better absorb
soup
broth.

March 9, 2020

Italian food and finery make
for good company

Pasta maker Pastificio
G. Di Martino has built a
reputation for a robust
wheaty taste and chew.
Although revered in
Italy—the 100-plus-year-
old company is valued at
more than $200 million—
it’s probably best known
abroad for a collaboration
with fashion duo Dolce &
Gabbana, which resulted
in brightly illustrated
packages and a Christmas
window takeover at Harrods
in London.
What started in 2017 as

a limited-edition product
that sounded like a joke—
clothing designers selling
gown-busting carbs—has
helped propel the company’s
expansion. This month,
Di Martino, which has a
handful of stores in Italy, will
open its first U.S. location,
La Devozione, in New York’s
Chelsea Market. The store
will stock all 126 of the
brand’s shapes, including
seven kinds of spaghetti in
a range of thicknesses. The
selection will also include
new-to-market designs such

as ribbon-shaped fresine
and tubular elicoidali, as
well as what founder and
Chief Executive Officer
Guiseppe Di Martino calls
“party shapes,” like the
spiral trottole. Eventually
the space will include a
48-seat pasta bar serving
broken candele tubes with
Neapolitan ragu as well
as its take on spaghetti
al pomodoro, also known
as la devozione—hence the
name. Bags of pasta start at
$5; D&G’s collectible tins go
for $160.

At Emmer & Rye in
Austin, chef Kevin
Fink experiments
with the aptly named
“pyramid” pasta


PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIN FRAZIER/COURTESY EMMER & RYE (EMMER & RYE). ERIC MEDSKER FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (REZDORA). COURTESY PASTIFICIO G. DI MARTINO. SARAH ANNE WARD FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (REMAINING)

A Fashionable


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ckwheat se
them especia
Along with t
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elegantly fla
ingredient
and black

What sound

that are rolled
56 individual strands
an angel hair. The
s “threads of God.”
eed to remember all
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