Bloomberg Businessweek USA - 09.03.2020

62

FOOD SPECIAL Bloomberg Pursuits

SO YOU WANT TO OP

OK, so this isn’t

going to make you a

lot of money. “Small

spaces are like an art

project,” Starr says.

It’ll have to satisfy

your soul.

Ye s

Big

Concept

Something

new

Tried and

true

No

What’s your concept?

START

Do you already have a space?

“Consider the public, but

don’t pander to it,” Starr says.

Familiarize yourself with

what they like, but supply

something they haven’t

considered.

How expensive will

it all be?

Small

Not very

Wildly

Focus on the small details

that pay dividends. “The

importance of a restaurant

name is underrated,”

says Starr. “Shake Shack

is a great name. If it was

Danny’s Burgers, it’s not

the same thing.”

Are you starting with

the concept or the chef?

Chef

MAJ

SE

B

EA

RD

A

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With 41 dining rooms under his watch, from
Buddakan to Le Coucou, hit-making restaurateur
Stephen Starr walks us through the tricky decisions
that get a spot from idea to opening night
Do this only when the
economy is in good
shape—“2008 would have
been a tough time to open
Le Coucou,” Starr says.
Starr compares the question of whether
the concept or space comes first to the
song-vs.-lyrics debate: “The Beatles would
often plug in the tune first, then write
the words. Elton John would use Bernie
Taupin’s words and then write the song. I
tend to find the space first.” He chose his
newest address, Verōnika in Manhattan’s
Fotografiska museum, before he picked the
Eastern European concept.
What size is it?
OK, but you need to make it
a blockbuster. If it is, it can
float passion projects. “It’s like
Robert De Niro doing Meet the
Fockers,” Starr says, “which
lets him do The Irishman.”
Only do this if you have a
superstar. This can help you
find the concept. Even then,
Starr says, big-name chefs
can be an aggravating voice
in the conversation. “But
overall they listen to me,” he
adds. “I’m like the executive
music producer that knows
how to make hits.”
Starr has replicated
restaurants occasionally,
such as Upland and El Vez.
If you do, be smart about
it. “I don’t like repeating,”
cautions Starr. “But you can
repeat a Mexican concept.
Or burgers.”