The Atlantic - 04.2020

APRIL 2020 85

Four hundred years ago, Coff ea arabica, a tropical shrub

bearing glossy green leaves and bright-red berries, was

virtually unknown outside of the Arab world and the

corner of Ethiopia where it had been discovered in

the ninth century—by a goatherd who, legend has it,

noticed that his animals would get frisky and stay up

all night after nibbling its berries. In the years since

people fi gured out that coff ee could aff ect us in similar

ways, the plant has done a great deal for our species,

and our species in turn has done a great deal for the

plant. We have given it more than 27 million acres of

new habitat all around the world, assigned 25 million

farming families to its care and feeding, and bid up its

price until it became one of the most valuable globally

traded crops. Not bad for a shrub that is neither edible

nor particularly beautiful or easy to grow.

Coff ee owes its global ascendancy to a fortuitous

evolutionary accident: Th e chemical compound that

the plant makes to defend itself against insects happens

to alter human consciousness in ways we fi nd desirable,

making us more energetic and industrious—and nota-

bly better workers. Th at chemical of course is caff eine,

which is now the world’s most popular psycho active

drug, used daily by 80 percent of humanity. (It is the

only such drug we routinely give to our children, in the

form of soda.) Along with the tea plant, which produces

the same compound in its leaves, coff ee has helped

create exactly the kind of world that coff ee needs to

thrive: a world driven by consumer capitalism, ringed

by global trade, and dominated by a species that can

now barely get out of bed without its help.

Th e eff ects of caff eine mesh with the needs of capi-

talism in myriad ways. Before the arrival of coff ee and

tea in the West in the 1600s, alcohol—which was

more sanitary than water—was the drug that domi-

nated, and fogged, human minds. Th is might have

been acceptable, even welcome, when work meant

physical labor performed out of doors (beer breaks

were common), but alcohol’s eff ects became a problem

when work involved machines or numbers, as more

and more of it did.

Enter coff ee, a drink that not only was safer than

beer and wine (among other things, the water it

was made with had to be boiled) but turned out to

improve performance and stamina. In 1660, only a

few years after coff ee became available in England,

one observer noted:

’Tis found already, that this coff ee drink hath caused

a greater sobriety among the Nations. Whereas for-

merly Apprentices and clerks with others used to take

their morning’s draught of Ale, Beer, or Wine, which,

by the dizziness they Cause in the Brain, made many

unfi t for business, they use now to play the Good-

fellows in this wakeful and civil drink.

“Th is wakeful and civil drink” also freed us from

the circadian rhythms of our body, helping to stem the

natural tides of exhaustion so that we might work lon-

ger and later hours; along with the advent of artifi cial

light, caff eine abetted capitalism’s conquest of night.

It’s probably no coincidence that the minute hand on

Th e World’s Favorite Drug

Th e dark history of how coff ee took over

By Michael Pollan

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