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© 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLCFor Perfectly Golden (Countryman, Apr.), Angela
Garbacz, who lived in New York before opening
Goldenrod Pastries in Lincoln, Nebr., scaled down
her professional recipes for “apartment kitchens
with tiny ovens,” says Ann Treistman, editorial
director of Countryman Press. “Some of her recipes
called for two separate stand mixer bowls—many
home cooks don’t even have the stand mixer. So she
made a lot of substitutions.”Sustenance and sustainability
Garbacz has described her style as “inclusive
baking.” Goldenrod Pastries caters to various
dietary restrictions, and all the recipes in Perfectly
Golden are gluten and dairy free; a “You Do You”
checklist on every page guides readers in adding
gluten or dairy back in if they prefer. Her interest
in prioritizing allergy-conscious baking stems
from her own dairy intolerance; a similar motiva-
tion lies behind the gluten-free recipes in Mee
McCormick’s Pinewood Kitchen.
“I’ve been in restaurants where I tell them I’m
gluten-free, and the waiter tells me, ‘You know,you should just have a cocktail,’ ” she says. “Every
cook in Pinewood Kitchen knows how to adjust
every dish for the customer’s needs, and I took the
same approach with the book.” Safe substitutions
are prominent in the book’s ingredient lists, and
McCormick takes care to identify potential
allergens.
Pinewood Kitchen is located on and uses ingre-
dients from McCormick’s Tennessee farm, and that
hyperlocal sourcing reduces the eatery’s carbon
footprint. That’s of a piece with a growing environ-
mental awareness among chefs and their customers,
though for some, it’s nothing new.
“I grew up in a sustainable community—we ate
what was around us, recycled what we could, made
do with a small pantry,” says Melissa Martin, whose
Mosquito Supper Club (Artisan, Apr.) is “a must-
have for any Cajun connoisseur,” PW’s starred
review said. The book takes its name from Martin’s
New Orleans restaurant, which serves one menu
in a single seating each evening, reducing food
waste. It’s a lesson customers can take home with
them. “Sustainability is about repurposing yourcontinued from p. 22