G2 The Boston Globe WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2020

Insider

YOU MIGHT WANT TO COME

HERE ON THE DAILY

W

hen you walk into The Daily, a new food market in Savin
Hill, you first see the vibrant colors of apples, oranges,
lemons, and limes. Their hues inspire the feeling of en-
tering a flower shop. Owners James Baker and John Mc-
Donough, real estate developers who grew up in the
Dorchesterneighborhood,knewagrocerywasjustwhat
the community needed. Before opening, they reached
out to neighbors to find out what they wanted most, and
the answer was high quality, fresh produce. “It was a food desert here,”
says Baker. A corner market named Ric-Rob once occupied the same lo-
cation but closed years ago. They have the old sign to prove it. Here the
shelves are stocked with lots of commercial brands and basics; every-
thing you need to fill your fridge and pantry, and beyond. There are a
dozen choices of nut butters. Come in the morning for coffee and a crois-
sant or a gluten-free or vegan freshly baked pastry, and pick up a roasted
chicken or other prepared foods for dinner when there’s no time to cook.
But what sets the store apart is the owners’ commitment to showcase lo-
cal products. In the freezer are Capone Foods pizzas and Jaju Pierogi’s
filled Polish dumplings, both from Somerville. Shelves are lined with
items you’ll find at farmers’ markets — Maine-grown dried beans from
Baer’s Best, Nutty Bird’s granola out of Worcester, and more. Asian pesto
from Fresh Zen and Hillside Harvest’s hot sauces are produced at Com-
monwealth Kitchen, a Dorchester food incubator, and the store partners
with the nonprofit and supports the members by selling their wares.
“We’re reaching out to hyper-local vendors so we can help them with
their business,” says Aimee Morgida, a retail consultant who curated the
store’s design and products. There are lots of gems to discover here
among the daily necessities.110 Savin Hill Ave., Dorchester.
ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

THE GOATS MAY BE

DWARFS, BUT THE GELATO

FLAVORS ARE BIG

M

ichael and Lisa Davis run Sweet

Doe Dairy, an 81-acre farm in Chel-

sea, Vt., with 120 Nigerian dwarf

goats, all born and bred right there.

The goats, with names like Mardi

Gras and Chicory, Gretl, and Ally

Baa Baa, are short, the size of a

goldenretriever,butprovidemilk

high in butterfat and without a

pungent taste. “Not all goat’s milk is

equal,” says Lisa. The couple turns the milk into gelato produced without

added cream, and lower in fat than most premium ice creams. The fro-

zen treat’s texture is dense, the flavors robust, and come in four varieties:

chocolate, made with Belgian chocolate and Dutch-process cocoa; cof-

fee, prepared with fresh-brewed coffee; vanilla, crafted with quality

Madagascar vanilla beans; and chai, made with black tea plus spices

(about $10 to $11 a pint). None has swirls or mix-ins. “There are no

chunks of anything, for we prefer the velvety texture and pure flavors,”

Lisa says. The couple moved from New York City eight years ago, leaving

corporate jobs to buy the farm. They are the first in New England to pro-

duce goat milk gelato. “We know some people are intolerant to cow’s

milk. This is one option for them that doesn’t compromise taste,” says

Michael.Available at Olive Connection, 1426 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-

879-9980; Debra’s Natural Gourmet, 98 Commonwealth Ave., West Con-

cord, 978-371-7573; Common Crow Natural Market, 200 Eastern Ave.,

Gloucester, 978-283-1665, or order at farmerstoyou.com, a pickup-and

delivery service.

ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

Ask anyone in Ireland about our St.
Patrick's Day traditional dish of
corned beef and cabbage and they will
give you a puzzled look. They don't
know the dish. What is more common
there is bacon or pork belly paired
with cabbage, but when the early Irish
immigrants came here, pork was prici-
er than beef, and so the salted, or
“corned” beef was substituted and be-
gan a new tradition.
We decided to create something
more in keeping with the traditional
Irish dish. This recipe of roasted cab-
bage wedges is cooked with pork belly
(or use slab bacon). Fresh pork belly is
the same cut of pork as bacon, but
without the curing, salting, or smok-
ing. It is fatty and rich and needs quite
a while in the oven to tenderize and
melt away some of the fat. Look for a
meaty, square piece, rather than a long
strip. If you have a long strip, cut it
half to fit into your skillet. If you use
the alternative cut, slab bacon, you get
salty, smoky tastes in the pot, so it
needs little seasoning. If you can't find
it in a slab, buy the thickest cut strips
you can find.
Cut the stack in half to fit into your
skillet, and tie the halves with string
on each end of the stacks to keep the
slices together when you roast them
(the directions are exactly the same as
those for pork belly). This is a simple,
hearty dish that reflects the spirit of
Irish cooking — turning a few ingredi-
ents into something delicious.
SALLY PASLEY VARGAS

Roasted Cabbage Wedges
with Pork Belly
Serves4

1 pound boneless pork belly
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 medium head (about 2½ pounds)
cabbage, cut into 6 wedges
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, or more if
needed
1 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

rack with the fat-side up. Transfer the skillet

to the oven and cook for 1 hour. Use tongs to

set the pork belly on a plate and the rack on

another plate.

3.Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the

skillet. Wipe any drips on the side of the skil-

let. Set the skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the butter, and when it melts, add the

the cabbage wedges, cut sides down, and

sear for 3 to 4 minutes on a side, or until

golden brown. Sprinkle with salt and pep-

per.

4.In a bowl, whisk together the stock, mus-

tard, and lemon juice. Drizzle it over the

cabbage. Wedge the pork belly, fat-side up,

into the pan. Cover the pan and return it to

the oven for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the

cabbage is tender.

5.Transfer the cabbage wedges to a serving

dish. On a cutting board, cut off and discard

the skin from the pork belly, if necessary,

and cut the pork into 1-inch pieces. Nestle

them into the cabbage. Taste the braising

liquid and add more salt, pepper or lemon

juice, if you like. Pour it over the cabbage

and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with boiled

new potatoes. Sally Pasley Vargas

THE CONFIDENT COOK

GOOD FOOD AND KITCHEN KNOW-HOW

This pot of roasted cabbage wedges with pork belly

is similar to the traditional Irish dish

1.Set the oven at 375 degrees. Set a round

rack inside a large, deep, ovenproof skillet

with a lid.

2.With a sharp knife, score the fat side of

the pork belly (if the skin is intact, score the

skin too) in a crosshatch pattern at ½-inch

intervals, cutting through the top layer of

skin and fat only (not the meat). Sprinkle on

all sides with salt and pepper. Set it on the

SALLY PASLEY VARGAS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE