G4 The Boston Globe WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2020
By Ellen Bhang
GLOBE CORRESPONDENT
Some of the most light-hearted, pulse-quick-
ening wines grow in landscapes that once experi-
enced cataclysmic events. The Alpine region of
Savoie in eastern France serves as a reminder
that, out of upheaval, something beautiful can
emerge.
Savoie, nestled next to Switzerland and south
of Jura, is well-known among outdoor enthusi-
asts who journey to the French Alps to ski, then
hike around the region’s pristine lakes during
short-but-spectacular summers. In the midst of
such recreational bliss, it’s difficult to imagine
that an important part of the terrain underwent a
disaster of enormous proportions more than 770
years ago.
On a rainy winter night in the year 1248, vil-
lagers living at the foot of Apremont, a 6,000-
plus-foot peak, awoke to an ominous rumble. The
summit’s porous limestone, weakened by erosion
and a month of heavy rain, had collapsed, send-
ing a cascade of boulders and sheared rock surg-
ing downhill. Thousands lost their lives. After the
tragedy, the peak — reduced to less than half its
height — was renamed Mont Granier in honor of
one of the devastated hamlets.
Apremont, which means “bitter mountain,” is
the name of one of the crus that grew out of that
forever-changed landscape. Abymes, which
translates loosely to ‘broken stones,’ is the cru lo-
cated to its south, also on slopes below Mont
Granier. The limestone that tumbled down in the
massive rockslide, together with marl, a type of
clay, eventually became the subsoil on which
vineyards were planted.
The alkaline nature of limestone is associated
with high acidity in grapes. Marl is known to fos-
ter slow-and-steady ripening as well as promote
acidity. So it’s no surprise that the jacquère vari-
etal — well-suited to limestone and clay — thrives
in this rocky landscape. The white grape, which
comprises half of all vineyard acreage in Savoie,
shines in the hands of growers who tame yields
so that the productive varietal can express its
racy, minerally potential.
When you pour these dry whites at your next
gathering, be sure to recount their backstory. The
wine and the tale will garner everyone’s atten-
tion.Domaine Jean Masson & Fils, Vieille Vigne
Traditionnelle, Vin de Savoie, Apremont
2017 Jean-Claude Masson, a fourth-generation
winegrower overseeing 22 acres of vines, is
lauded for working 10 distinct parcels on the
slopes of Mont Granier. This bottle offers
mineral scents, followed by yellow tree fruit,lively citrus, and mountain flowers.
Refreshingly tart and edged with salt, it
displays appetizing length. 12 percent alcohol
by volume (ABV). Around $20. At BRIX, South
End, 617-542-2749; Helen’s Bottle Shop,
Manchester-by-the-Sea, 978-704-9908.Domaine des 13 Lunes, Vin de Savoie,
Apremont 2018Sylvain Liotard farms 14
acres of organic- and biodynamic-certified
vines on the slopes of Mont Granier. His
jacquère is waterfall-fresh on the nose, with a
whisper of juicy apple and something lightly
tropical beneath the minerality. Citrus, stones,
and salt come together in an altogether
pleasing package. 11.5 percent ABV. Around
$20. Blanchards Wines & Spirits, Jamaica Plain,
617-522-9300; Porter Square Wine & Spirits,
Cambridge, 617-547-3110.Domaine Labbé, Vin de Savoie, Abymes 2018
This 25-acre estate, established by a pair of
brothers in the ‘70s, is now run by their
enterprising children. Ski-slope fresh with a hint
of yellow fruit on the nose, this pour is brightly
lemony, full of mineral, and finishes with
delicious salinity. 11 percent ABV. Around $14.
At Vintages, Concord, 978-369-2545;
University Wine Shop, Cambridge, 617-547-
4258.Ellen Bhang can be reached at
[email protected]Savoie wines emerged
from a dramatic landscape
ELLEN BHANG FOR THE BOSTON GLOBEBY THE GLASS
WINES WORTH A POUR BETWEEN $12 AND $30Serves 4
Hearty breads are a staple of the Irish table, as are butter
and cheddar. In these sandwiches, which combine all
three, begin by toasting large, thick slices of whole-grain
bread and slathering them with butter. Top with a mix-
ture of sauteed onions and sharp cheese (try one of the
Irish brands) and broil the toasts until the cheese is
melted. Top the golden, gooey mess with a zippy slaw of
carrots and celery to contrast with the rich base. It's not
an Irish classic, but it's got elements of the modern table.
1 tablespoon apple-cider vinegar
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 red apple, cored and cut into matchsticks
2 ribs celery, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced
crosswise on the diagonal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
4 large slices from a crusty, whole-grain loaf
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups shredded sharp cheddar
1.In a bowl, whisk the apple-cider vinegar, mustard,
chives, salt, and pepper. Add the apple and celery. Toss
well; set aside.
2.In a skillet over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable
oil. Add the onion, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring often,
for 8 minutes, or until dark golden. Transfer to a bowl.
3.Turn on the broiler. Place an oven rack 5 inches below
the heating element. Have on hand a rimmed baking
sheet.
4.Set the bread on the baking sheet and toast under the
broiler for 2 to 3 minutes on a side, or until well
browned. Watch the bread carefully, rotating as needed.
Leave the broiler on. Remove the toast from the oven
and butter each piece on 1 side.
5.Add the cheddar to the onions and stir well. Top each
piece of toast on the buttered side with the onion mix-
ture. Return the toasts to the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes,
or until the cheese is melted and beginning to brown.
Rotate often during cooking.
6.Top each toast with a large spoonful of apple-celery
slaw. Karoline Boehm GoodnickMakes 12
For St. Patrick's Day, these rustic, tender golden-
raisin buns are shaped from Irish soda-bread
dough. The tender dough is always made with
buttermilk, which was left from making butter. As
you're shaping the dough, add enough additional
buttermilk, one tablespoon at a time, until there
are no crumbly bits at the bottom of the bowl. Let
the dough sit in the refrigerator for one to two
hours to rest; the flour will continue to absorb the
liquids so the dough is easier to handle. Shape the
rounds, sprinkle generously with sugar, and use
kitchen scissors, held vertically, to snip the tradi-
tional “x” in the tops before baking.
2¾ cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup whole-wheat flour
2½ teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
‚ cup sugar
10 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons)
cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
„ cup buttermilk, or more, if needed
1 egg and 1 extra yolk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1½ cups golden raisins
Extra flour (for sprinkling)
Extra granulated sugar (for sprinkling)1.In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose and
whole-wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and
sugar.
2.Scatter the butter over the flour mixture. Using a pas-
try blender or two blunt knives, cut the fat into the flour
until it is reduced to small pearl-size bits. With your fin-
gertips, crumble the mixture for a minute or two to re-
duce the butter to smaller flakes.
3.In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, whole
egg, extra yolk, and vanilla. Pour the buttermilk mixture
over the flour mixture. Scatter over the raisins. With a
rubber spatula, stir to form a rough dough. With your
hands, work the mixture in the bowl until it comes to-
gether, using 6 to 8 gentle kneading turns. If the mixture
seems dry, add more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Wrap in foil and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. The dough
will continue to absorb moisture and become firmer as it
chills.
4.Set the oven at 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with
parchment paper.
5.Turn the dough onto the counter and if it seems sticky
in spots, pat with a little flour. Roll the dough into a wide
log and divide it into 4 pieces. Cut each into 3 pieces to
make 12 total. Roll each into a plump ball. Transfer the
balls to the baking sheet, setting them 3 inches apart.
Sprinkle generously with granulated sugar. Use the tip of
kitchen scissors, held vertically, to snip a small “x” in the
tops.
6.Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until set and golden.
Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly. Serve warm with
butter. Lisa YockelsonSEASONAL RECIPES
WHAT TO COOK THIS WEEK
Cheddar Toasts with Apple-Celery Slaw
Golden Raisin Soda Bread Buns
KAROLINE BOEHM GOODNICK FOR THE BOSTON GLOBESHERYL JULIAN FOR THE BOSTON GLOBEGlobe.com/MunchMadness
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