New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

46 new york | march 16–29, 2020

HO FOODS’

Savory Soy Milk

DA CIRO’S

Focaccia Robiola

Invented by Queens-born Ciro Verdi during

Le Madri’s heyday, this pizza variant is double

crusted, stuffed with creamy robiola, and drizzled

with truffle oil. The effect is not unlike an

ethereal form of its original inspiration: a toasted

bagel with cream cheese.

GOLDEN DINER’S

Tuna Melt

CASELLA’S

Prosciutto Speciale

HART’S

Clam Toast

F&F PIZZERIA’S

Regular Slice

You can’t top the taste of nostalgia. But Frank

Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli’s naturally

leavened, high-hydration-dough ode to the corner-

slice-joint slice comes pretty damn close. Sprinkle

it with some Grana Padano from a glass shaker.

CHAMA MAMA’S

Adjaruli Khachapuri

Looks like a bread canoe that sprung a leak on a sea

of molten fromage. The so-called Georgian cheese

boat is filled to the brim with cheese, plus egg yolk

and butter to mix in. Local cheese-boat sightings are

on the rise, but Chama Mama does it best.

SUPERIORITY BURGER’S

Bean Soups

For some, “bean soup” might sound like

punishment. For Brooks Headley, devout student

of the Rancho Gordo catalogue, it’s an ever-

evolving culinary canvas and a delicious vehicle for

starchy additions like grilled rice, broken

spaghetti, and crusty, fresh-baked focaccia.

HAENYEO’S

Rice Cake Fundido

TRANSMITTED

TRANSMITTED

REVISED

________ COPY ___ DD ___ AD ___ PD ___ EIC

Cesare Casella’s rosy-pink prosciutto is not

only rich and supple, it’s keeping American

Heritage-breed hog farms in business.

How you can help: Wrap some slices around

a bunch of grissini and go to town.

Two hunks of fresh-baked sourdough rubbed

down with garlic and piled high with

Manila clams cooked in white wine, pancetta,

and fennel. It’s the very model of modern

comfort food, modern finger food, and that

most modern of foods: fancy toast.

Nutty, housemade soy milk comes topped with

crunchy cruller, scallions, chile oil, and vinegar that

curdles the milk. (Fluffy pork floss is extra, and

recommended.) It’s a little spicy, a bit tart, and

incredibly savory: everything that makes Taiwanese

breakfast world-class in a bowl.

With apologies to Eisenberg’s and Mom, former

fine- dining fast-tracker Sam Yoo’s tuna melt takes

the cake. The cutting-edge technique? He whips

French’s mustard into the tuna salad and shoves

salt-and-pepper potato chips between the rye.

This figurative and literal melting pot draws

from the Korean, Mexican, and Swiss kitchens:

Korean rice cakes (tteokbokki) form the

backbone of the scarlet stew spiced with gochujang,

bedecked with chorizo, and assuaged by

a generous cap of goopy Oaxacan cheese.

0620STR_BONY_lay [Print]_36876960.indd 46 3/13/20 1:19 PM

46 newyork| march16–29, 2020

HOFOODS’

SavorySoyMilk

DACIRO’S

FocacciaRobiola

InventedbyQueens-bornCiroVerdiduring

LeMadri’sheyday,thispizzavariantis double

crusted,stuffedwithcreamy robiola,anddrizzled

withtruffle oil.Theeffectis notunlike an

etherealformofitsoriginalinspiration:a toasted

bagelwithcreamcheese.

GOLDENDINER’S

TunaMelt

CASELLA’S

ProsciuttoSpeciale

HART’S

ClamToast

F&F PIZZERIA’S

Regular Slice

, g y g

slice-jointslicecomespretty damnclose.Sprinkle

it withsomeGranaPadanofroma glassshaker.

CHAMA MAMA’S

Adjaruli Khachapuri

Looks like a bread canoe that sprung a leakona sea

of molten fromage. The so-called Georgiancheese

boat is filled to the brim with cheese, plus eggyolk

andbuttertomixin.Localcheese-boat sightingsare

ontherise,butChamaMamadoes it best.

SUPERIORITY BURGER’S

Bean Soups

For som nd like

punishment. For y, devout student

of the Rancho Gordo catalogue, it’s an ever-

evolving culinary canvas and a delicious vehicle for

starchyadditionslike grilled rice, broken

spaghetti,andcrusty,fresh-baked focaccia.

HAENYEO’S

RiceCakeFundido

Cesare Casella’s rosy-pink prosciutto is not

only rich and supple, it’s keeping American

Heritage-breed hog farms in business.

How you can help: Wrap some slices around

a bunch of grissini and go to town.

Two hunks of fresh-baked sourdough rubbed

down with garlic and piled high with

Manila clams cooked in white wine, pancetta,

and fennel. It’s the very model of modern

comfort food, modern finger food, and that

most modern of foods: fancy toast.

Nutty, housemade soy milk comes topped with

crunchy cruller, scallions, chile oil, and vinegar that

curdles the milk. (Fluffy pork floss is extra, and

recommended.) It’s a little spicy, a bit tart, and

incredibly savory: everything that makes Taiwanese

breakfast world-class in a bowl.

With apologies to Eisenberg’s and Mom, former

fine- dining fast-tracker Sam Yoo’s tuna melt takes

the cake. The cutting-edge technique? He whips

French’s mustard into the tuna salad and shoves

salt-and-pepper potato chips between the rye.

This figurative and literal melting pot draws

from the Korean, Mexican, and Swiss kitchens:

Korean rice cakes (tteokbokki) form the

backbone of the scarlet stew spiced with gochujang,

bedecked with chorizo, and assuaged by

a generous cap of goopy Oaxacan cheese.