New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

48 new york | march 16–29, 2020

TERANGA’S

DUMPLING GALAXY’S CAMPO ROSSO’S

when to get it BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

GEM SPA’S

You’ve probably seen its Castelfranco, Tardivo, and Treviso on smart menus all

over town. But you may not have known that the entire local exotic-radicchio

category is dominated by this 13-acre Pennsylvania farm that grows what was

once only imported from Italy. They’re the most beautiful—and delicious—

bitter greens (and pinks and purples) you’ll find west of the Veneto.

When Parul Patel took over the corner store from her ailing father,

she found the business—and the chocolate egg cream—in danger of

extinction. Thankfully, she has restored the drink to its former glory,

and here it is in a soda-fountain glass, a tritone symphony of whole milk,

chocolate syrup, and seltzer—a bouffant of bubbles.

The charms of the supersize mashed-plantain starch ball called

fufu might escape you at first. But in the grain-bowl context, sided with

vegetable and bean stews and peanutty mafé sauce, its innate mopping

and sponging capacities become delectably manifest.

In an increasingly crowded field, the off-menu lamb XLBs at this

dumpling Shangri-la stand alone, with a juicy richness and depth of

flavor that makes you feel sorry for other soup dumplings.

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48 newyork| march16–29, 2020

TERANGA’S

DUMPLINGGALAXY’S CAMPOROSSO’S

whentogetit BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

GEM SPA’S

You’ve probably seen its Castelfranco, Tardivo, and Treviso on smart menus all

over town. But you may not have known that the entire local exotic-radicchio

category is dominated by this 13-acre Pennsylvania farm that grows what was

once only imported from Italy. They’re the most beautiful—and delicious—

bitter greens (and pinks and purples) you’ll find west of the Veneto.

When Parul Patel took over the corner store from her ailing father,

she found the business—and the chocolate egg cream—in danger of

extinction. Thankfully, she has restored the drink to its former glory,

and here it is in a soda-fountain glass, a tritone symphony of whole milk,

chocolate syrup, and seltzer—a bouffant of bubbles.

The charms of the supersize mashed-plantain starch ball called

fufu might escape you at first. But in the grain-bowl context, sided with

vegetable and bean stews and peanutty mafé sauce, its innate mopping

and sponging capacities become delectably manifest.

In an increasingly crowded field, the off-menu lamb XLBs at this

dumpling Shangri-la stand alone, w richness a th of

flavor that makes you feel sorr soup dum