New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

56 new york | march 16–29, 2020

LE COUCOU’S

Quenelle de Brochet

Nobody invests their little pillow of mashed pike

with more painstaking care (the fish is tweezed of

bones and blended with cream and eggs) and

st yle (the Champagne beurre blanc, the dot of

caviar) than Daniel Rose.

WAYLA’S

Moo Sarong

At this Chongqing-dry-pot specialist, wok hei is

hot and heavy in each bowl improvised from an

astonishing choice of ingredients, from tongue to

tendon, all infused with enough spicy oil and

Sichuan peppercorn to set one’s mouth afire.

You look at the menu and think, Onion rings?

Instead, you get a pile of scoop-shaped wedges,

fried tender and crisp, blasted seemingly by paint

gun with tomato powder, and showered with

Parm. On the side, a bowl of creamy cheese sauce.

Bar food extraordinaire.

MÁLÀ PROJECT’S

Dry Pot

MISI’S

Occhi

MODERN LOVE’S

Hen-of-the-Woods

Piccata

The pasta’s moniker and origins remain murky,

but who cares? By any other name—ravioli,

anolini, tortelli—the domed pockets, plumped

with ricotta, glossed with butter, and blitzed

with shaved lemon zest and bottarga, would

taste just as rich and savory.

Sizzling squid sisig in a skillet singing. It zoops

and joops like a campground fire. The fried

cephalopod is as crunchy as granola, as spicy as

all ge t-out, and, with a twist of calamansi, as

bright as a 100-watt bulb.

MAMA FINA’S

Sizzling Squid Sisig

In a land of bodega BECs and OTT toasts, the set

meal seems ascetic: a plank of fish, a square of

tamagoyaki, soup, rice, pickles. But each element

is perfectly wrought, as subtle as the dawn sky and

as refreshing as a breath of clean mountain air.

OKONOMI’S

Japanese Breakfast

MOMOFUKU KO’S

Burger With

Foie Gras

Forget the pork bun. If there’s a dish that defines

the enduring Momofuku high-low aesthetic, it’s

this snack-size burger: three ounces of dry-aged

beef topped with melting foie gras on a Martin’s

hot-dog bun slicked with Japanese mustard.

Smart, iconoclastic, delicious.

Italian-Americans have spaghetti and meatballs,

but Thais have moo sarong: tiny porkballs wrapped

in wheat noodles, then deep-fried to a crisp. At

Wayla, it takes nimble-fingered cooks three minutes

to prep one moo sarong and customers less than

that to polish off a basket of six.

VIC’S

Crispy Sweet

Onions

Isa Chandra Moskowitz was animal free before

Impossible was a glint in its founder’s eyes. Her

special talent is capturing the essence of comfort

classics, as in this crisp-fried, lemon-and-wine-

sauced maitake that doesn’t so much mimic veal

piccata as resuscitate it.

when to get it BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

TRANSMITTED TRANSMITTED

________ COPY ___ DD ___ AD ___ PD ___ EIC

0620STR_BONY_lay [Print]_36876960.indd 56 3/13/20 12:36 PM

56 newyork| march16–29, 2020

LECOUCOU’S

QuenelledeBrochet

Nobody inv ashedpike

with more painsta e fish is tweezedof

bones and s) and

st yle(theC dotof

c

WAYLA’S

MooSarong

At this Chongqing-dry-pot spe ist, wokheiis

hot and heavy in each bowl improvised froman

astonishingchoiceofingredients, from tongueto

tendon,allinfusedwithenough spicy oiland

Sichuanpeppercorntosetone’s mouthafire.

Youlookat themenuandthink,Onionrings?

Instead,yougeta pileofscoop-shapedwedges,

friedtenderandcrisp,blastedseeminglybypaint

gunwithtomatopowder, andshoweredwith

Parm.Ontheside,a bowlofcreamy cheesesauce.

Barfoodextraordinaire.

MÁLÀ PROJECT’S

Dry Po

MISI’S

Occhi

MODERNLOVE’S

Hen-of-the-Woods

P

wit s ave emonzest an ottarga, wou

tastejust asrichandsavory.

and joops like a campground fire. The fried

cephalopod is as crunchy as granola, as spicy as

allge t-out,and,witha twistofcalamansi, as

brightasa 100-watt bulb.

MAMAFINA’S

SizzlingSquidSisig

In set

of

ta ent

is ubtle as the dawn skyand

h ofclean mountainair.

OKONOMI’S

eBreakfast

MOMOFUKUKO’S

BurgerWith

FoieGras

this snack-size burger: three ounces of dry-aged

beef topped with melting foie gras on a Martin’s

hot-dog bun slicked with Japanese mustard.

Smart,iconoclastic,delicious.

Italian-Americans a etti and meatballs,

but Thais have moo sarong: tiny porkballs wraped

in wheat noodles, then deep-fried to a crisp. At

Wayla,it takesnimble-fingeredcooks three minutes

topreponemoosarongandcustomers less than

thattopolishoff a basket of six.

VIC’S

Crispy Sweet

Onions

piccataasresuscitateit.

whentogetit BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY