New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

60 new york | march 16–29, 2020

MIZNON’S

Cauliflower

SULLIVAN STREET BAKERY’S

Pizza Pomodoro

2ND AVE DELI’S

Chicken in the Pot

Cheeseburgers of the moment come and go, but

Billy Durney’s ode to the lunchtime Peter Luger

burger is that rare beef-and-cheese combo that

manages to combine the ancient pleasures of the

form with the thrill of discovering something new.

Long before square slices were all the go, there was

Jim Lahey’s pizza pomodoro: a swipe of sweet

tomato on a caramelized crust, served at room

temp and better for it. No bells, no whistles, no

cheese, no roof-of-the-mouth burns.

RED HOOK TAVERN’S

Cheeseburger

The Japanese answer to the lobster roll: fresh

crab mixed with sriracha mayo and tobiko roe,

tucked into a slip of nori seaweed coated in

puffed rice. It’s the perfect single bite (or two, if

you’re in polite company).

NAMI NORI’S

Spicy Crab

Dynamite Roll

It takes chutzpah to name a dish “the Original World

Famous Baby Cauliflower,” but this crucifer merits the

hype: The whole head is boiled in Dead Sea–salty

water, caressed with olive oil, then roasted until the

surface is golden brown and the interior custardy.

Unadulterated, potent, and delivered to your door

in a glass jar. That is the golden elixir known as

chicken in the pot: heady broth, half a kosher bird,

thick slices of carrot, chewy “flake” noodles, and a

spongy, schmaltzy matzo ball. Common colds

cower in its presence.

SPANISH DINER’S

Huevos Rotos

Casa Lucio

Full English breakfast, Spanish style: olive-oil-

fried eggs lounging on fat fries that soak up the

runny yolks like hyperactive sponges. Around the

plate goes a meaty wreath of Spanish pork

product: ham, chistorra, morcilla. You’ll never

miss the Heinz baked beans.

THE GRILL’S

Prime Rib

Dry-rubbed, spit-roasted for hours, rubbed again,

then finished in the oven before being wheeled to

the table in a carving cart and served in brisket jus

under a faint shaving of fresh horseradish.

SAINT JULIVERT FISHERIE’S

Crispy Tuna Bake

Imagine your mother’s tuna casserole with a globe-

trotting spirit and an enhanced surface area.

There’s turmeric and curry leaf in the tomato

sauce, oil-cured tuna mingled among the noodles,

and a shallow pan to ensure maximum crunch.

The dip is made from house-whipped mayonnaise

and spoonfuls of crème fraîche, a touch of sherry,

veal stock, and dehydrated onions also made from

scratch. But the key is the golden, crunchy

housemade chips. And yes, it’ s more or less

impossible to eat just one.

TAK ROOM’S

Chips and Dip

when to get it BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

BEST of NEW YORK

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60 newyork| march16–29, 2020

MIZNON’S

Cauliflower

SULLIVANSTREETBAKERY’S

PizzaPomodoro

2NDAVEDELI’S

ChickeninthePot

Cheeseburgersofthemomentcomeandgo, but

BillyDurney’s odetothelunchtimePeterLuger

burgeris that rarebeef-and-cheesecombothat

managestocombinetheancientpleasuresofthe

formwiththethrillofdiscoveringsomethingnew.

Longbeforesquaresliceswereallthego, therewas

JimLahey’spizzapomodoro:a swipeofsweet

tomatoona caramelizedcrust, servedat room

tempandbetterforit.No bells,nowhistles,no

cheese,noroof-of-the-mouthburns.

REDHOOKTAVERN’S

Cheeseburger

TheJapaneseanswertothelobsterroll:fresh

crabmixedwithsrirachamayoandtobiko roe,

tuckedintoa slipofnoriseaweedcoatedin

puffedrice.It’stheperfectsinglebite(ortwo,if

you’reinpolitecompany).

NAMINORI’S

SpicyCrab

DynamiteRoll

It rld

Fa the

y

w he

surfaceis goldenbrownandtheinteriorcustardy.

Unadulterated,potent,a deliveredtoyour door

ina glassjar. Thatis thegldenelixirknown as

chickeninthepot:headybroth,halfa kosher bird,

thickslicesofcarrot,chewy“flake”noodles,and a

spongy,schmaltzymatzoball.Commoncolds

cowerinitspresence.

SPANISHDINER’S

HuevosRotos

CasaLucio

FullEnglishbreakfst, Spanishstyle:olive-oil-

friedeggsloungingonfat friesthat soakupthe

runnyyolkslike hyperactivesponges.Aroundthe

plategoesa meaty wreathofSpanishpork

product:ham,chistorra,morcilla.You’llnever

misstheHeinzbakedbeans.

THEGRILL’S

PrimeRib

Dry-rubbed,spit-roastedforhours,rubbedagain,

thenfinishedintheovenbeforebeingwheeledto

thetableina carvingcart andservedinbrisketjus

undera faintshavingoffreshhorseradish.

SAINTJULIVERTFISHERIE’S

CrispyTunaBake

Imagineyourmothers tunacasserolewitha g o e-

trottingspiritandanenhancedsurfacearea.

There’sturmericandcurryleafinthetomato

sauce,oil-curedtunamingledamongthenoodles,

anda shallowpantoensuremaximumcrunch.

Thedipis madefr ppedmayonnaise

andspoonfulsofcrèmefraîche,a touchofsherry,

vealstock,anddehydratedonionsalsomadefrom

scratch.Butthekeyis thegolden,crunchy

housemadechips.Andyes,it’ s moreorless

impossibletoeatjust one.

TAKROOM’S

ChipsandDip

whentogetit BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

BEST of NEW YORK