New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

march 16–29, 2020 | new york 63

WIN SON BAKERY’S

Mochi Doughnut

This Taiwanese-American café eschews ordinary old-

fashioneds for a doughnut devised from the ancient

grain millet and glutinous rice flour. Fried to order

and coated in ginger-cardamom sugar, it emerges

soft, almost stretchy, and appealingly chewy.

KETTL’S

Matcha Chocolate Bar

Supersmooth, creamy, and balanced enough to

appeal even to those unmoved by matcha or white

chocolate. The collaboration between tea upstart

Kettl and old-school chocolatier JoMart comes

plain or speckled with roasted buckwheat: Nestlé

Crunch for the matcha-crazed masses.

Ribbed tubes of spinach pasta get sauced with

super-lush veal-and-porcini ragù larded with

besciamella and fonduta. It ’s one of those

infernally good dishes the kitchen can never retire

for fear of customer revolt. Chef Jonathan Benno

doesn’t even think about nixing it.

BENNO’S

Garganelli Verde

NICHE’S

Steak Mazemen

As dry as a Steven Wright punch line, mazemen is

ramen’s brothless brother. The Sun Noodle

noodles are thick and wavy, the chunks of rib eye

charred and sweet. And for something saucier, if

not soupier, you can add a poached egg.

MR. KHAO MAN GAI’S

CAFE DUSHANBE’S

Kurutob Salad

Can salad be indulgent? Yes, if it’s the national

dish of Tajikistan and the star of this Central

Asian menu: tomatoes and cucumbers, ripped

slabs of croissant-textured fatir bread, dried-

yogurt dressing, fried onions, and a scattering of

cilantro and thinly sliced chiles.

Hainanese

chicken rice,

Thai-street-cart

style: The bird is

simmered with

garlic, ginger, and

pandan leaves,

chilled, then plated

over rice cooked in

the broth. Eat it

with a cup of

radish soup and a

spicy, gingery

sauce.

BEST of NEW YORK

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march16–29, 2020 | newyork 63

WINSONBAKERY’S

t

ThisTa dinary old-

fashionedsfoa do gh t devisedf o theancient

grainmillet andglutinousriceflour.Friedtoorder

andcoatedinginger-cardamomsugar, it emerges

soft,almost stretchy,andappealinglychewy.

KETTL’S

MatchaChocolateBar

Su to
app y ite
chocolate.Thecollaborationbetweenteaupstart
Kettl andold-schoolchocolatierJoMartcomes
plainorspeckledwithroastedbuckwheat:Nestlé
Crunchforthematcha-crazedmasses.

besciamellaandfonduta.It ’s oneofthose
infernallygooddishesthekitchencanneverretire
forfearofcustomerrevolt.ChefJonathanBenno
doesn’t eventhinkaboutnixingit.

BENNO’S

GarganelliVerde

NICHE’S

SteakMazemen

Asdry asa StevenWrightpunchline,mazemen is

ramen’sbrothlessbrother. TheSunNoodle

noodlesarethickandwavy, thechunksofrib eye

charredandsweet.Andforsomethingsaucier, if

notsoupier,youcanadda poachedegg.

MR.KHAOMANGAI’S

CAFEDUSHANBE’S

KurutobSalad

Cansala national

dishofTajiki ofthisCentral

Asianmenu:tomatoesandcucumbers,ripped

slabsofcroissant-texturedfatirbread,dried-

yogurt dressing,friedonio scatteringof

cilantroandthinly iles.

Hainanese

chicken rice,

Thai-street-cart

style:Thebird is

simmered with

garlic,ginger, and

pandanleaves,

chilled,thenplated

overricecooked in

thebroth.Eat it

witha cup of

radishsoupand a

spicy,gingery

sauce.

BEST of NEW YORK