Much has been written about the horological importance
of the TAG Heuer Carrera, in many ways the emblem-
atic motorsport-derived chronograph (it is named after
the Carrera Panamericana, a Mexican border-to-border
road race along the lines of Italy’s Mille Miglia and
Targa Florio) and certainly one of the earliest examples of “midcentury
modern” design as expounded in a complicated wristwatch.
Writing in his 2013 autobiography, its creator, Jack Heuer, the dynamic
young heir to the Chaux-de-Fonds brand, recalled, “I wanted a dial that
had a clear, clean design and a new technical invention came to my aid.
A manufacturer of plastic watch crystals had invented a steel tension
ring that fitted inside the crystal and kept it under tension against
the surrounding steel case. I decided to use the inside bevel of this
tension ring to carry the markings measuring one-fifths of a second...
this was the secret behind the fresh, clean and uncluttered appearance
of my first ‘Carrera’.”
Surprisingly, Jack doesn’t quite recall when this was, but research
by Heuristas dates the first run of Carreras to 1963. Now, to mark
the 160th anniversary of the company’s founding (by Jack’s great-
grandfather Edouard in 1860), TAG Heuer has released a stunning
re-creation of the renowned monochrome silver-dial series of 1964,
featuring its three counters and starburst silver-coloured dial, but with
some 21st-century updates, including a slightly larger case size (39mm
as opposed to 36mm).
Along with a necessary shift of the seconds counter from nine to six
o’clock, to take account of its contemporary Heuer 02 self-winding move-
ment, other changes include the shape of the hour and minute hands,
which are now coated with Super-LumiNova, and the addition of a domed
sapphire crystal reminis-
cent of, but not found on,
the original Carrera.
The most significant dif-
ference between the two
watches is the modern
model’s in-house movement,
which features an impres-
sive 80 hours’ power reserve- a 30-hour improvement
on the Valjoux calibre fitted
to the original.
Presented on a black alli-
gator strap, it’s limited to
1,860 pieces and comes
complete with a case-
back engraved with “One
of 1860” as well as a rede-
signed oscillating weight
visible through the screwed-
down sapphire crystal,
confirming its status as an
anniversary edition. BP
It’s 10am at Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in northern
Japan when suddenly a song blares throughout the factory.
Encouraging the workers to get up and stretch, it’s the sound
of traditional Japanese “radio exercise music” – and it serves
as a reminder that, for all the familiar watchmaking equip-
ment in this building and the verdant, mountainous scenery visible
through the windows, this is unmistakably not Switzerland.
What differentiates Seiko from the European marques, however,
is not merely its corporate culture. Since its birth in 1881, the
company has developed innovations and techniques that are unique
in the industry. These are crystalised in Grand Seiko, its line of
premium, technically ambitious timepieces, worlds away from the
mass-produced quartz models you wore in childhood and certainly
more expensive (today’s Grand Seiko prices span £2,350 to £45,000).
Although this recherché range was only sold in Japan until 2010,
it is now at the forefront of the corporation’s new quest: to repo-
AVAILABLE FROM JUNE. TAGHEUER.COM sition itself globally as a luxury brand.Old ticks,new tricksAs part of the manufacturer’s 160th anniversary,
TAG Heuer brings the first Carrera up to speed2020
...whereas TAG Heuer’s
anniversary model features
80 hours’ power reserve.GRAND SEIKO 60TH
ANNIVERSARY, £22,000.
GRAND-SEIKO.COM1964
The original
Carrera
housed a
50-hour
Valjoux
movement...YOUR NEXTLUXURY WATCHIS... A SEIKO?What springs to
mind when you hear
the name ‘Seiko’?
Reliable quartz
models? Timepieces
for divers? Well, to
celebrate 60 years of
Grand Seiko, you can
now add high-end
horology to the listStory by Charlie Burton04-20Watches_3350962.indd 120 10/02/2020 09:05
120 GQ.CO.UK APRIL 2020