The Pastry School by Julie JonesDecorative chef Julie Jones might be a star baker now, but her culinary
ambitions were never purely in pies, puddings and cakes. The trained
chef turned her attention to baking as a way to connect and collaborate
with her mother, who was suffering from early onset dementia. Jones
photographed her creations on what would become her award-winning
Instagram account and began recruiting an army of
followers, including Jamie Oliver. And if Oliver likes
her work, you will too. The Pastry School (Kyle
Books, £25) is her second book, a how-to guide,
packed with tips and techniques. It features recipes
for sweet and savoury snacks, plaits and various
other comforting treats to bake at home. “Pastry is
the nemesis of many,” says Jones. “I want to change
that.” Consider us converted. Kardelen Yuce GThe BookClockwise from far
left: mussels, brown
shrimp, asparagus;
chef Tom Kitchin;
Southside ScranMussels,brown shrimpand asparagusSouthside Scran,Edinburgh(Serves two, as a starter)- 200g fresh
mussels,
cleaned and
soaked in cold
water to cover
for 20 minutes - Olive oil
- 1 garlic clove
- 2tsp shallots,
finely chopped - 100ml dry
white wine - 12 asparagus
spears, trimmed
and tips
removed from
the stalks- Sea salt and
freshly cracked
black pepper - 30g butter,
chopped - 40g shelled
brown shrimp - 1/2 lemon
- Drain the mussels then discard any
that remain closed when tapped. - Heat a flameproof casserole over a
medium-high heat, then add a splash of
olive oil. Add the garlic and shallots and
sauté for 1 minute. Add the mussels and
the wine to the dish. Cover the pan and
bring to the boil, then lower the heat
and simmer for 3 minutes or until all the
shells have opened. Strain the mussels
through a colander set over a bowl so
you catch all the cooking liquid. Discard
any mussels that have not opened. - Return the washed and dried pan
to a medium-high heat, then add a
splash more oil. When it’s hot, add the
asparagus tips and roll them around
in the oil, then add a ladle of the
cooking liquid and season with salt
and pepper. Cover the pan and leave
the asparagus to cook until tender.
As the stock reduces add a little water. - Now add the butter and shake the
casserole to emulsify well. Add a
splash of oil and return the mussels
to the pan. Stir in the brown shrimp
and a squeeze of lemon juice and
simmer just long enough to heat the
shrimp through. Adjust the seasoning
if necessary. Remove half of the
mussels from the shell and leave
half in the shell to serve.
IngredientsMethodWhen he isn’t busy judging the 2020 GQ Food &
Drink Awards, Tom Kitchin spends most of his
time flying around his home city of Edinburgh
(and East Lothian), cooking in – and keeping a watchful
eye over – his growing collection of hospitality hot spots.
From the Michelin-starred Kitchin in Leith, through to a
city gastropub (The Scran & Scallie) and his village
restaurant with rooms (The Bonnie Badger), the talented
Scottish chef and his wife, Michaela, are on fire at the
moment and the searingly hot streak hasn’t stopped there.
Southside Scran is one of their most recent openings andtheir version of an intimate, classic
French bistro with a tasty tartan twist.
By combining the classic cooking
techniques picked up from working
with Alain Ducasse, Pierre Koffmann
and Guy Savoy, with the finest
seasonal Scottish ingredients, Kitchin
delivers a masterclass of a menu. And
while Highland Wagyu beef, Loch Fyne
oysters and Tarbert crab are all high on
the list of recommendations, GQ would
advise visitors to put their faith in the
restaurant’s daily specials. That way,
you might just end up tucking into
a dish such as the one above. PHIndulge in French fare with Scottish flair
courtesy of the super-chef’s Southside ScranThe RecipeIllustrationDavid HopkinsGQ TASTE14-17 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH EH10 4HN.
0131 342 3333. SOUTHSIDESCRAN.COMOUT NOW.04-20TasteRecipe_3359698.indd 95 13/02/2020 11:24