KIGALI
14 hours in
7AM
BREAKFAST AT A MILK BAR
Cows and their milk are so precious to
Rwandans that dairy-related references
feature in their favourite chat-up lines. If
someone says, “You walk like a beautiful
calf” or “I’ll treat you like my one and only
cow”, you can get your coat — you’ve pulled.
Since city dwellers don’t have easy access to
their own herd, they visit milk bars instead.
Sipping a glass of fresh milk or creamy
ikivugoto (drinking yogurt) in Nyamirambo is
a quintessential local experience.8AM
MOUNT KIGALI
One of the best ways to get a lungful of fresh
air on a bright morning is to head up from
Nyamirambo to Mount Kigali, a hill that, at
almost a mile above sea level (5,141t), is the
city’s highest viewpoint. Locals come here
for a little peace and quiet or a bracing stroll
through the pines and chance encounters
with wild vervet monkeys. If the weather’s
clear, you can expect ine views of the capital
and the rolling farmland beyond.9.30AM
EXPLORE NYAMIRAMBO
It’s well worth spending some time in the
working-class district of Nyamirambo,
perhaps by booking a walking tour with Go
Further Tours or the Nyamirambo Women’s
Center. In contrast to Kigali’s sleek, modern
centre, this is an atmospheric, traditional
neighbourhood, with a buzzing covered
market, a landmark mosque, thriving small
businesses and several striking murals by
Kurema, Kureba, Kwiga. gofurther.tours
nwc-umutima.orgMIDDAY
LOCAL LUNCH
Urban Rwandans love a bufet: it’s a chance
to enjoy hearty dishes such as ugali (polenta),
beef and goat brochettes (grilled skewers),
matoke, dodo leaves and rich bean stews,
which take hours to prepare at home.
Tuck in at Tamu Tamu on KN 2 Avenue in
Nyamirambo, join the queues at Fantastic
Restaurant on KN 2 Avenue near the KN 1
Roundabout, or pile your plate at Chez John
on KN 50 Street, just south of Kiyovu.CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
Street art facilitated
by Kurema, Kureba,
Kwiga; craft tutor Jean-
Pierre Mbarubukeye,
Azizi Life Studio; a buffet
lunch of matoke, dodo,
rice and beans, Tamu
Tamu, Nyamirambo
April 2020 145KIGALI