JUDY JOO
is a London-based,
Korean-American
restaurateur,
TV host and
cookbook authorJudy Joo shares her love of Korean cuisine,
and her tips on where to eat in SeoulWhen my Korean parents moved to New
Jersey, where I was born, my mom had to
make everything from scratch to get that
taste of home they so desperately craved.
Our porch was crowded with pots full of
fermenting delicacies and there were hangers
of drying seaweed in our garage. A small
garden produced a bounty of perilla leaves,
chillies and Korean squash. And, from time to
time, large packages would arrive from Korea,
stufed full of culinary treasures.
Preserved and fermented foods have a
long history in Korea, and kimchi (fermented
vegetables) is traditionally eaten with each
meal. Korean food is also all about the
sides; the table is laid corner to corner with
small dishes, showcasing everything from
vegetables to marinated meats and more.
When it comes to street food, meanwhile,
fried things on sticks are enduringly popular,
as are savoury pancakes, the perfect ater-
work snack with a cold beer.
This is an edited extract from Korean Soul
Food, published by White Lion Publishing
(RRP: £22).MUST-TRY DISH
Bulgogi is thinly sliced
beef marinated in soy
sauce, sesame oil,
garlic, Asian pear juice
and ginger. Cooked
over a charcoal grill, it’s
deliciously addictiveGAESEONG MANDU KOONG
Whenever I go back to Seoul, I ind myself in
one of Insadong’s many mandu (dumpling)
restaurants. The large, plump, North Korean-
style dumplings at Gaesong are handmade
daily and stufed with a variety of illings, such
as vegetables, meat and tofu.
WHAT TO ORDER: Dumpling soup: savoury
pillows loating in a light, lavoured broth.KALGUKSU ALLEY
Located in the bustling Namdaemun Market,
this little alley isn’t easy to ind as its hidden
behind see-through plastic sheets. Once
you emerge through these ‘doors’, you’re
aggressively greeted by ajoomas (middle-aged
women) beckoning you to eat at their stall.
WHAT TO ORDER: The ladies here are all
hawking the same thing — hand-cut noodles
in anchovy broth, topped with sliced spring
onions and dried seaweed. On a cold winter’s
day, it’s just the warming umami hit you need.BALWOO GONGYANG
Buddhism has a long history in Korea, and the
food has always been an integral part of the
country’s cuisine. The Michelin-starred fare at
this Buddhist centre is vegan and free of alliums
and strong-smelling vegetables (though chillies
are allowed). I ind the monastic experience a
welcome respite from the busy city.
WHAT TO ORDER: The tasting menus change
seasonally, but whatever you order will give
you a taste of the very best ‘temple food’.
balwoo.or.krSout h Korea
A TASTE OF
IMAGES: YUKI SUGIURA
JUDY’S TOP THREE
SEOUL RESTAURANTSApril 2020 27SMART TRAVELLER