LIKE A LOCAL
Adam Vodička’s guide
to Brno’s nightlifeBRNO
Discover the youthful spirit of the Czech Republic’s
second city, with its quirky attractions and a
surprising gastronomic sceneFor a city of 400,000 — a signifi cant chunk of whom are
university students — there’s a discernable buzz to Brno.
Evenings are for dining out at the latest farm-to-table
restaurant, and weekends are for shopping in the old
market, checking out the newest speakeasy, or cycling
out to South Moravia’s patchwork of thriving vineyards.
The city has serious historical and cultural credentials,
too — its streets whisper of empires, occupations and a
revolution (albeit the Velvet kind) — but it’s the quality
and lazy pace of local life and the infectious joie de vivre
of the locals that’s the real highlight of any visit.
Brno, you’ll fi nd, has a surprising penchant for
odd monuments. A popular meeting spot is the
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK in Náměstí Svobody square — a
futuristic, phallic sculpture out of which a glass marble
pops each day at 11am. Another eye-catching fl ourish
is the bronze STATUE OF THE KNIGHT, featuring Jobst of
Moravia astride a 25 tall gira e-like steed in Moravian
Square. Sights like these can be admired on a walking
tour booked through the tourism o ce. ticbrno.cz/en
Below its charming array of ornate churches and
towers, the historic centre has a secret, subterranean
kingdom with a sinister history. Beneath the Zelný trh
— or Cabbage Market — is a labyrinth of former torture
chambers and dusty cellars, and even a pub, all of which
can be toured with a costumed guide. Brno also has
Europe’s second-largest ossuary a er Paris — visit the
installation underCHURCH OF ST JAMES for a spooky
display of bones. And at 10
7 BUNKER, grab a map and
start exploring the fascinating tunnels and anterooms of
a former Cold War-era nuclear fallout shelter, which was
classifi ed as ‘Top Secret’ by the military until as recently
as 1993. It also o ers overnight rooms, tucked away in the
depths of the bunker. 10-z.cz
For an equally outlandish but far more luxurious stay,
check into the 10-room ANYBODY HOTEL, which also o ersimmersive game play in rooms inspired by cult 1960 fi lms
like La Dolce Vita and Breakfast at Ti any’s. The concept
has gone down a storm with locals, many of whom opt for
multiple weekend staycations to sample di erent rooms.
Rates start at €120 (£101) for two people, B&B. Pair a stay
with a visit to cocktail bar extraordinaire SUPER PANDA
CIRCUS. This Tokyo-inspired speakeasy has no drinks
menu; instead, bartenders challenge guests to a game to
determine their order. anybody.cz superpandacircus.cz
To get a taste of the city’s burgeoning gastronomic
scene, start at the CABBAGE MARKET. Trading since the
13th century, its produce, food and fl ower stalls are open
from spring to autumn, Monday to Saturday. Don’t miss
BOZSKY KOPECEK for vegan ice cream, and DOBROKÁVA, a
co ee maker that will swap a fl at white for a good deed.
Brno didn’t always have sensational restaurants: over
the past decade, talent and investment have returned to
the city. Today the very best eateries can be scouted out
with the help of stylish pocket guide GOURMET BRNO,
published annually and available in tourist information
centres. Not sure where to start? CASTELLANA TRATTORIA
is lauded for its hedonistic Italian fare and extensive
wine list, while intimate courtyard bistro ATELIER
COCKTAIL BAR & BISTRO is popular for its creative dishes
and wine pairing. castellana.cz atelierbar.cz
Look beyond the city, too. Brno sits at the heart of
South Moravia’s legendary winelands, which include the
picturesque slopes and valleys around the Pálava Hills
and the fairytale Lednice Castle. Drive or cycle into the
countryside for tastings at the historic cellars of NEPRAŠ,
the award-winning SONBERK, and the new kid on the
block OBELISK, stopping for lunch at the rustic restaurant
PENZION PASTUŠKA. Vineyard tours and tastings can be
organised through local travel agency Holiday Moments.
vinarstvinepras.cz sonberk.cz vinarstviobelisk.cz
pastuska.cz holidaymoments.cz AMELIA DUGGANCABARET DES PÉCHÉS
With a lavish, red
velvet-clad interior, this
new cabaret is a novel
addition to the city’s
entertainment scene,
hosting regular standup
comedy nights. Unusually
for Brno, you can even
turn up here with a
party of 10 or more.
cabaretdespeches.com4POKOJE 4ROOMS
At this (almost) 24-hour
bar, sip a cocktail
made with homemade
ingredients, or enjoy an
eggs benedict breakfast
washed down with
Champagne. Staff are
super helpful — if there’s
anything happening in the
city, they’ll know about it.
miluju4pokoje.czLEMON MUSIC
CLUB
In the Frisco/Castro
district, check out
the LGBTQ+-friendly
Lemon Music Club.
Later, greet the dawn
in Denisovy sady, the
gardens overlooking
the twinkling city
lights. facebook.com
/lemonmusicclubbrnoINSIDE GUIDE
Adam is the local
entrepreneur behind
some of Brno’s
best bars, including
high-end cocktail
venue The Bar
That Doesn’t Exist
barkteryneexistuje.cz
IMAGES: LENKA POŽÁROVÁ; ALAMY; GETTY34 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER34 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel