Little India
Step out of the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit)
station and turn down Bufalo Road, and
you could be mistaken for thinking you’re
in a small Indian city. Shopfronts illed
with gold chains are displayed behind
meticulously polished glass counters, the
sweet scent of cardamom dominates the
air, and hand-tied loral garlands hang from
outdoor stalls. The only giveaway that this
is Singapore is the addition of the country’s
signature orchids to the brightly coloured
piles of petals being sold and shoved into
bags to take away.
Despite Singapore’s social policies
deliberately trying to avoid the
establishment of ethnic enclaves, Little
India remains the commercial and cultural
hub for the local Indian community. The
irst migrants drited into this area as it
had a better water source for the cattle they
tended, and the community grew from there.
It’s late aternoon when I arrive, and I take
a seat at Ananda Bhavan, one of the city’s
oldest Indian restaurants, snacking on puri
(deep-fried bread) prepared fresh to order
and watching the suburb come to life.
Women in saris rush past with heavy
shopping bags having stocked up at the
24-hour Mustafa Centre shopping mall,
and across the road, a shopkeeper ringsGREEN CORRIDORS
While international visitors lock
to Gardens by the Bay, locals
recommend the Botanic Gardens.
Keen hikers should head to Bukit
Timah Nature Reserve. nparks.
gov.sg gardensbythebay.com.sgISLAND-HOPPING
Of all Singapore’s 63 islands,
Pulau Ubin is a favourite for
its traditional village feel; get
there by boat from Changi Point
Ferry Terminal and hire a bike to
explore. visitsingapore.comTHE LITTLE RED DOT
Context Travel’s excellent socio-
political tour covers the history,
sociology and politics that shaped
the country. contexttravel.comSINGAPORE CITY GALLERY
This museum ofers a fascinating
look into how the city has
developed and the challenges it
faces in the future. ura.gov.sgRAFFLES
Reopened ater an extensive
renovation, this hotel still retains
its old-world charm. While the
tourists line up for a Singapore
sling at the iconic Long Bar, locals
dine at BBR by Alain Ducasse,
which has a sophisticated,
casual Mediterranean menu.
ralessingapore.comSKY HIGH
For high-end dining with
incredible views, head to Skai,
located on the 70th loor of the
Swissotel building overlooking
St Andrews. skai.sgan auspicious bell, while his assistant When in Singapore...
burns incense in a bid for good fortune.
The Indian Heritage Centre, an angular
chrome and glass confection opened in
2015, ofers an insight into the area’s history
with everything from augmented reality
exhibits to classical portraiture. Aterwards,
I wander with the crowd towards the Sri
Veeramakaliamman Temple, one of the
area’s biggest landmarks.
Kicking of my shoes and leaving them by
the door of this Hindu temple, I’m invited in
to mix with an overlowing crowd who have
come here for worship ater their working
day. Some light candles set in terracotta
pinch pots, others leave oferings of food and
lowers for the goddess Kali, kids run and
squeal, and some simply settle against a wall,
scrolling through their mobile phones.
A small queue of men and women wait
politely for a free meal to be dished out from
a large communal pot. Funded by the well-
dressed woman ladling out dhal, this food
is as an important staple for the numerous
foreign workers who originate from the
Indian subcontinent and are employed
mainly in construction.
Many live in dormitories in other parts
of the island, but come to Little India to
worship, eat and experience a welcome echo
of their homeland.IMAGE: GETTY
April 2020 63NEIGHBOURHOOD