2019-03-01 Global Traveler

(Jacob Rumans) #1

70 globaltravelerusa.com MARCH 2019


FOR DECADES, TOURISTS largely
avoided Belfast, put off by the
violent sectarian struggle known as
the Troubles. From the late 1960s
until a ceasefire was declared in
1994, the largest city in Northern
Ireland resembled a war zone, but in
the 25 years since, it has undergone
something of a renaissance.
Thanks to an injection of cash
from the British government and
the European Union, a wave of
shopping centers, hotels, bars and
restaurants changed the face of the
city. Now home to around 600,000
people, the city of Belfast proves an
attractive destination for travelers
who want to eat, drink and make
merry in a place where history is
never far from the surface.
Donegall Square serves as
the traditional central hub of a
city divided into areas known as
quarters. One of the best for visitors
is the Cathedral Quarter, where the
charming streets house great pubs
and restaurants. In this historic
central district you will find The
Muddlers Club, a widely renowned
restaurant tipped to be the next
Belfast establishment to receive a
prestigious Michelin star. Nearby,
the local favorite Coppi serves
Italian-style tapas known as cicchetti.
Wherever you eat, make sure to try
some seafood; the cold, deep waters
off Belfast provide a huge range of
delicious marine treats, and it would
be a shame to miss out.
The area is known for its
traditional architecture and features
plenty of old-school pubs where
you can spend time getting to know
the locals. Check out Bittles Bar,
an old pub housed inside a distinctive red-brick flatiron
building, as well as Whites Tavern, in operation since the
17th century. Victorian-era gin palaces are also a calling
card of the city, with the Crown Liquor Saloon arguably
the most spectacular example. Settle into one of the snugs
to admire the stained-glass windows and mosaic floors

over a drink.
For a taste of old-school Belfast, explore the
winding streets of the Cathedral Quarter and listen
for the sounds of traditional music from the pubs. It’s
the beating heart of a city that has been through a lot
but lived to tell the tale.

neighborhoods | BELFAST


Belfast Revival


The Cathedral Quarter’s historic streets come alive with local culture. BY JACK GUY


IRELAND

NORTHERN
IRELAND
Belfast

Dublin

PUB FARE:


Bittles Bar (above), and Crown Liquor
Saloon (left)
PHOTOS: © PAULMCCABE1 - DREAMSTIME.COM,
© JINGMIN310 - DREAMSTIME.COM
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