MARCH 2019 globaltravelerusa.com 75
We took a cab to the well-known Clube de
Fado in the Alfama district on a rainy Friday
night and squeezed into a tiny table near the
entrance as the music was about to begin.
The dark, crowded room barely offered a
stage for the performers, but the audience
went silent as the female singer emerged.
Backed by 12-string Portuguese guitars, her
mournful tones reached the dark corners,
carrying a tale with no need for translation.
Yearning, heartbreak, grief all seemed to
be mixed into one sorrowful song. As she
finished, the applause erupted from this crowd
of locals ranging in age from 20 to 60 and up.
Some were clearly hipsters; others were older
but still fashionable. We noticed only a few
obvious tourists.
Europe’s westernmost capital city, Lisbon
enjoys a subtropical Mediterranean climate
with more hours of sunshine per year than
Athens, so it makes sense beaches are a big
draw here. The official tourist agency notes
the city gets 290 days of sunshine a year. With
a free day, or even just an afternoon, consider
visiting Carcavelos Beach, about a half-hour’s
drive or ride on public transit. Stop at a
waterfront restaurant for fresh seafood, some
drinks and a spectacular sunset view.
A must-do daytrip is Sintra, reachable by
commuter trains from Rossio Station. The
train ride takes about 45 minutes to this small
village with castles and palaces, gardens and
hiking trails. Catch a morning train and
spend the day.
If you have more time, Sintra makes a
fine place to stay a few days and combine
relaxation and romance. Its forested
mountains with outstanding views drew the
wealthy and the royals who built elaborate
residences here in the 1800s. Not surpris-
ingly, Sintra is often described as a fairy-tale
destination. One of the most popular
stops in Sintra, the Pena Palace, provides
an ostentatious example of Romanticism,
built by King Ferdinand II in 1838. A forest
and gardens with more than 500 species of
trees from around the world surround this
multicolored palace.DINING
BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ
Celebrity chef José Avillez
offers multiple dining
venues at this spot in
Chiado. Check out the
Páteo and its memorable
grilled tiger prawns and
smooth sheep’s cheese.Rua Nova da Trindade 18
$$$$OLIVIER AVENIDA
Don’t miss the house fa-
vorite, picanha beef (sirloin
cap in the United States),
at Chef Olivier da Costa’s
signature restaurant.Thin-sliced and served with
truffle sauce, it’s rich but
delicious.Rua Júlio César Machado 7
$$$$SEEN LISBOA
Come to this new hot spot
atop the Tivoli Avenida
hotel for the fabulous city
views and innovative cock-
tails. The food is top-notch,
too. Savor the banana
peanut cake.Tivoli Avenida Liberdade
Lisboa, Ave. de Liberdade
185
$$$FAIRY-TALE TOWN:
Pena Palace in Sintra
PHOTO: © BALATE CRISTIAN MIRCEA - DREAMSTIME.COM