All about...
APPLIQUÉ
T
he word appliqué comes from
the French verb ‘appliquer’,
which means ‘to apply’. In a
craft context, it’s a technique used in
many different areas, from pottery
and cake decorating to sewing and
quilting. Sewn appliqué involves
cutting out a small shape from one
material and then stitching it to a
larger base fabric.
Appliqué can be done by hand or with
a sewing machine, although as this is a
beginner’s guide we’ll stick to the simpler
hand techniques! We’ve covered two ways
to hand appliqué – choose the method
that suits your project and that you feel
comfortable with.
GETTING STARTED WITH APPLIQUÉ
First, choose what shapes you want to
stitch on to your quilt top. These can be
hand drawn or printed from a computer
to create a paper template. Ready-made
plastic templates are also handy. Draw
around the shape onto the wrong side of
the fabric, making sure the shapes are
cut as neatly as possible. One of the
trickiest parts of appliqué can be holding
the shapes in place on the base fabric
while you sew them on. Many stitchers
find pins, tacking stitches, basting spray,
fabric glue or fusible web helpful.
Fusible web is a man-made fibre
backed with glue – essentially a fabric
version of double-sided tape. When it’s
placed between two pieces of fabric and
ironed it becomes sticky, so it’s ideal for
appliqué. There are several types
available – choose one that has a similar
weight to your appliqué fabric.
RAW-EDGE METHOD
This is the simplest appliqué method, but
does require neat stitching when you sew
it on. In this method, the edges of the
shapes are left to fray, as the stitches
holding them in place are sewn just
inside the edge of the shape. This can
create a decorative finish as the fabrics
develop a ragged edge over time. For a
neater effect, try the turned-under-edge
method (see below), which is also used in
our ‘Spinning in orbit’ quilt (you can find
the project on page 135).
REVERSED IMAGES
If your shape isn’t a regular circle or
square – for example, a letter of the
alphabet that will only work in one
orientation – then you’ll need to
reverse it before stitching in place.
Simply trace your chosen shape onto
tracing paper then turn the paper over
and draw over the lines on the back.
Use this reversed pattern shape on the
wrong side of the fabric to make sure
the finished appliqué shape will have
the right orientation.
Adding appliqué elements to your patchwork will give
your finished quilt a unique feel. It’s easy and effective!
Adding Texture
132 Beginner’s Guide to Quilting
TURNED-UNDER-EDGE METHOD
With this technique, the edges of the appliqué
shapes are hemmed before being stitched onto
the main base fabric. The best product to use for
this is freezer paper, but if you’re just starting out,
you can use any thick paper instead.
(^1) First trace the appliqué shape onto paper,
making sure you leave space between shapes so
there’s room to cut them out. For freezer paper,
trace the shape onto the non-shiny side.
(^2) Cut out the shape, then cut the fabric ¼in
(6mm) bigger than the paper shape.
(^3) If you’re using freezer paper, lay it shiny side up
on to the wrong side of your appliqué fabric.
Appliqué involves cutting out a shape from one
material and stitching it to a larger base fabric
(^4) Turn the edges of the fabric over onto the paper
and iron into place, snipping curves and corners
as you go, if needs be. (See Fig 1, right) The shiny
side of the freezer paper will stick to the fabric. With
ordinary paper, just tack the edges in place.
(^5) Continue turning the edges over in this way
until you’ve worked all round the shape (see Fig 2).
(^6) Turn the shape over to the right side of the fabric
and pin, then iron it into place onto your base
fabric. If you’re using freezer paper, the shiny side
will hold it in place. Stitch it on using small neat
stitches just through the very edge of the turned-
over appliqué fabric, taking care not to stitch
through the paper (see Fig 3).
(^7) Finally, remove the backing paper, which will
need to be pulled through the fabric. You can do
this in one of two ways:
a) Leave one edge of the appliquéd shape
unstitched, undo the tacking stitches and pull out
the paper. Then turn the edge back under and finish
stitching it to your base fabric.
b) For more intricate shapes, make a small snip in
the base fabric behind the centre of the appliquéd
shape and carefully remove the paper through
this hole before stitching it up. This is a very useful
technique when adding appliqué to a quilt top,
where the wadding and backing fabric will hide
these secret stitches.