Knitting - UK (2020-05)

(Antfer) #1

18 knittingmag.com


GUEST COLUMN


Can you explain your linear production
approach?
The linear approach in making is rather
simple, but slow. In traditional production
houses and sample rooms, you have one
person doing one job, all day, so you will
have one person knitting one piece all
day, another person linking all day. Doing
the same job is more efficient, yes, but the
way I make, each item is made from end
to end to order, which means no stock is
made which would force price drops, etc.
Each item of clothing is treasured and only
made when it’s been ordered, so it is slow
fashion that lasts.


How do you transform scrap yarn into
accessories? Can you give any tips to Knitting
readers who might want to do this with their
scrap yarn?
This is a great question. When you machine
knit, unfortunately the way you have to pull
the yarn through so it doesn’t drop your
knitting means around 30cm of yarn gets
wasted, and most factories discard this.
I keep mine, separate each by fibre, store
them and use them for all sorts of projects.
They may not be good for machine knitting,
but I use them for hand embroidery and
darning projects. I created really edgy
editorial sunglasses – they may not have
been practical, but they are part of a great
array of ideas. I used up scrap to make
Christmas decorations, and you can make


headbands, mini macramé bracelets and all
sorts of upcycling projects.

How many people do you work with? Is it hard
to keep up with demand?
I currently do all the knitting myself. I
hire help for web development, business
development and graphic design, but the
rest is all me. It’s only hard in the winter
months when there are many events to
be part of, but you have to knit in the
studio until late every day. Eventually, I’m
hoping to have a larger space to have more
machines and have help with knitting. I
would love to create apprentice programmes
to have more graduates make use of their
amazing knitting skills in real life.

What inspires your designs?
It’s usually the machine’s capabilities – I
still like to go through the old instruction
manuals, where there are a large number of
stitch suggestions, and just one stitch gives
so many options. I also like the idea of the
wearer being comfortable and the viewer
enjoying the view. So, having bright colours
and fun shapes is a winner for me.

Do you hand knit?
Yes, I learned to hand knit before machine
knitting. It’s very satisfying that you can
create a project anywhere, and make it
interactive by knitting in groups. I tend to
knit using second-hand yarn from charity

shops, usually personal projects that take
way longer than they should – as these
are just for hobbying, I tend to take my
time. Machine knitting has a lot of perks
in terms of the speed to make, but hand
knitting is more forgiving – when you
make a mistake, your work has usually not
fallen on the floor.

What role do London and the UK play in your
designs and inspiration?
Being born and bred here, there’s inspiration
and colours that change all the time. I
personally owe so much of who I am to
London, so as a love token, I name each item
after small London roads – roads that only
a Londoner may know, adding a web around
the map of London as a little thank you.

What are you working on now and what are
your plans for the future?
I just finished re-shooting all my old summer
pieces to avoid knitting an entire summer
collection. Reimagining and capturing older
pieces brings new life to original designs
that may not have been seen by many. This
also avoids further sampling, saving time
and resources. Future plans are to keep on
knitting, working on the business, getting
more well known. I’m also hoping to have
more machines this year and arrange more
visible mending teaching workshops.

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