Why go
Thanks to its historic Scandinavian ties,
today, the Shetland Islands is an intriguing
blend of Scottish and Nordic culture — in
fact, its remote location in the North Atlantic
means it’s actually closer to Bergen than to
Edinburgh. It’s a far-flung choice for a UK
break that offers up plenty of opportunity
for adventure. Travellers can hike along the
jagged coastline, try their luck at spotting
orcas and puffins, stumble across an Iron Age
settlement or just hop in the car and drive
through the islands’ windswept landscape
(looking out for those famous little ponies en
route, of course). visitscotland.comWhat to do
Archaeological sites are everywhere on
Shetland: Jarlshof is one of the finest,
situated on a dramatic headland at the
southern tip of the mainland. Here, visitors
will find the remains of a settlement
spanning 4,000 years that contains
everything from Iron Age wheelhouses to a
16th-century laird’s house. For an even older
sight, take a trip to Eshaness peninsula.
Follow the path along the coastline from the
lighthouse to see the cross-section and layers
of solidified lava flows of a 350-million-year-
old volcano. historicenvironment.scot
shetland-heritage.co.uk/eshanessDon’t miss
Shetland’s capital, Lerwick, features a
gorgeous winding high street where, at the
southern end, you’ll find the lodberries, a
collection of water-fronted cottages and
storehouses once used by merchants for
easy access to the water. Look familiar? One
of them stands in for the home of Detective
Jimmy Perez in BBC’s crime drama Shetland.Where to eat
At Frankie’s, you’ll find battered haddock and
chunky chips, but you’ll also see steaming
bowls of mussels and scallops. Over in
Lerwick, The Dowry is a modern cafe with
Nordic vibes and views out to the harbour.
It serves beautifully presented mains and
is also a good place to try Shetland’s local
ale, brewed a mile up the road at Lerwick
Brewery. frankiesfishandchips.com instagram.
com/thedowryshetland lerwickbrewery.co.ukWhere to stay
Sumburgh Head Lighthouse perches
precipitously on the southern tip of
mainland Shetland. Bed down in the former
lightkeeper’s house, which has walls so thick
you’ll barely notice if there’s a storm raging
outside. And look out for orcas — this is
one of the best spots to see them from land.
shetlandlighthouse.com GAIL TOLLEYWE LIKE
Two short ferry rides
from the mainland gets
you to Unst, home to
a remote gin distillery,
Shetland Reel, which
does tours during
the summer. A stroll
through Hermaness
National Nature
Reserve takes you
within sight of the island
of Muckle Flugga, the
UK’s most northerly
point. Or, explore the
headland at Skaw that’s
dotted with Second
World War bunkers.
shetlandreel.comScotland’s northernmost frontier is a
truly remote escape, with prehistoric
history and fine seafood to bootSHETLAND
STAY AT HOME
ABOVE: Shetland pony grazing on the
IMAGE: GETTY island of Unst
Jul/Aug 2020 27SMART TRAVELLER