The New York Times - USA (2020-07-22)

D2 N THE NEW YORK TIMES, WEDNESDAY, JULY 22, 2020

IS THERE Apepper lover among us who
doesn’t swoon at the thought of a darkly
roasted red bell: velvety, caramelized and
dripping with juice?
Whether curled over crostini or draped
onto some kind of tangy cheese, roasted
peppers are the most crowd-pleasing way
to enjoy the sweet summer vegetable
(which, like a tomato, is botanically a fruit).
This savory pasta offers all the joys of
roasted peppers without having to roast
and peel them, or to rely on slightly acrid
jarred versions.
Instead, slivers of fresh bell peppers
(preferably with a mix of colors) are
sautéed with whole garlic cloves until ev-
erything turns golden brown. This initial
searing brings out their sweetness and soft-
ens them — to a point. The key to a truly
plush texture happens when you deglaze
the hot pan with a splash of liquid.
During deglazing, the tasty browned bits
stuck to the bottom of the skillet dissolve,
adding layers of flavor to the piquant, com-
plex sauce. But in this recipe, there’s a bo-
nus: The steaming liquid will also break
down any trace of spine the peppers might
have maintained, leaving them perfectly
floppy and gorgeously silky.
Because I like to sip wine when I cook,
spilling some into the pan is my lazy per-
son’s method of deglazing. But you don’t

need to open a bottle just for this dish. Wa-
ter, broth, beer, dry sherry, or even the gin
and vermouth of your martini (if you can
spare it) will work just as well, giving it a
very slight nuance.
Really, you’ll barely taste it, because most
of the sauce’s character comes from those
burnished peppers and garlic cloves, zipped
up with a little rosemary and red-pepper
flakes, and deepened with loads of ancho-
vies. (Yes, you can skip the anchovies, but
compensate with some soy sauce.)
A dollop of fresh ricotta just before serv-
ing brings the elements together, lending
creamy richness to contrast with the mound
of torn fresh herbs and crisp scallions that
make up the garnish. Don’t skimp on those
scallions. Other than the snap of al dente
pasta, the scallions will be the only textural
contrast in the bowl. But they are enough —
all the dish needs to bring the suppleness of
sweet peppers to the fore.

MELISSA CLARK A GOOD APPETITE

What’s Better Than Caramelized Onions?

Caramelized sweet peppers,

sautéed with garlic cloves.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND STYLING BY JULIA GARTLAND FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

This spring, as shoppers searched shelves
for yeast and flour, heirloom tomatoes were
just beginning their journey. Their seeds
were buried and reliably took root. With wa-
ter, sunlight and good soil, the plants bore
fruit, offering a timely reminder to us all on
the importance of nourishment and care.
Heirloom tomatoes illustrate a connec-
tion to the past, and there’s comfort in how
they stand the test of time. The prized seeds
are passed down from season to season,
generation to generation. Farmers harvest
them from the juiciest, sweetest and most
vibrant tomatoes, then save and plant the
seeds the next year once the weather is
warm. Gardeners and shoppers who revere
them know that their season is worth the
wait. There are thousands of varieties, from
the roundish and slightly peppery Brandy-
wines to the stately, bicolored Gold Medals
— all unlike those cookie-cutter-like hy-
brids that are bred to be “tough enough” for
a long, bumpy journey.
The joy of this tomato pie is in how it leans
on those misshapen heirloom varieties,
which are — like many of us — fragile and
prone to bruising. But don’t judge heirlooms
on external characteristics. Inside, there’s
robust flavor and sweetness to be savored.
Whether you’re a first-time baker or a se-
rious hobbyist, this heirloom tomato tart is
a delight to make, with some reliable short-
cuts. Store-bought pesto and pie dough can
make preparing this dish especially simple.
The dough may need some rolling out to fit
in the pan, but leaning your weight into a
rolling pin to expand the dough can be a ca-
thartic release at the end of a hectic day.
Tomato slices, sweet and juicy, abound
throughout the tart, suspended in an airy
egg custard that’s speckled with fragrant
basil and fresh oregano. While in the oven,
that custard — just eggs whisked with
cream — bakes up, rising to stand shoulder-
to-shoulder with the tomatoes. (Use an as-

sortment of heirloom styles to make this

dish even more intriguing.) Melted moz-

zarella melds everything together, and

those trusty tomatoes keep the filling bright

and juicy.

Life is uncertain enough. Dinner doesn’t

have to be.

Heirloom Tomatoes

In a Timeless Tart

Letting juicy varieties shine

with custard and pesto.

By VALLERY LOMAS

BRYAN GARDNER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES. FOOD STYLIST: BARRETT WASHBURNE.

TIME: 30 MINUTES

YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Kosher salt

12 ounces short pasta, such as radiatori,

fusilli or campanelle

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus

more for drizzling

8 to 10 anchovy fillets, chopped, or use a

dash or two of soy sauce

2 large rosemary sprigs

6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Large pinch of red-pepper flakes

2 sweet bell peppers (red, orange or

yellow), thinly sliced

2 tablespoons dry red, white or rosé

wine, or use dry vermouth or water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Fresh lemon juice

½ cup fresh ricotta

2 scallions, thinly sliced, or ¼ cup sliced

red onion

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint, basil or

thyme, plus torn mint or basil leaves

and tender sprigs, for garnish

Freshly grated Parmesan (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a
   boil. Add the pasta and cook, according to
   package instructions, until the pasta is just al
   dente.


2. As pasta cooks, heat a large sauté pan over
   medium-high, and add 3 tablespoons olive oil.
   When the oil is hot, add the anchovies and
   rosemary, and sauté until the anchovies start to
   dissolve, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and
   red-pepper flakes, and sauté until the garlic
   turns pale golden in spots, about 1 to 2
   minutes.


3. Add the bell peppers and a large pinch of salt
   to the pan, and sauté until the bell peppers are
   very soft and well caramelized, 10 to 15
   minutes, lowering the heat if the peppers start
   becoming too dark. Add the wine (or water) and
   the butter, and sauté, scraping up the browned
   bits on the bottom of the pan. Taste and season
   with lemon juice and more salt as needed.


4. Put ¼ cup ricotta and the scallions in a large
   serving bowl, and season aggressively with
   black pepper.
   5. Use a coffee mug or measuring cup to scoop
   about ½ cup pasta water from the pot. Drain
   the pasta, then add it to the bowl with the
   ricotta and scallions, tossing well. Add the bell
   pepper mixture and the herbs, and toss well,
   adding a splash or two of pasta water if the
   mixture looks dry. Taste and season with more
   salt if needed.
   6. Spoon pasta into bowls, and top with dollops
   of the remaining ¼ cup ricotta, a drizzle of oil
   and a little Parmesan, if you like. Shower torn
   herb leaves over all.

PASTA WITH CARAMELIZED PEPPERS,

ANCHOVIES AND RICOTTA

TIME: 1½ HOURS

YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Dough for a 9-inch single crust pie, or

use store-bought, rolled into an

11-inch round (see Note)

1½ pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes (about

4 medium)

¼ cup store-bought pesto

¾ cup shredded mozzarella (about 3

ounces)

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

oregano

3 large eggs

⅓ cup heavy cream

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Fit the rolled-out
   dough into a 9-inch tart pan, allowing the
   edges to rise about ¼ inch above the rim of the
   pan. Prick the dough all over with a fork.


2. Line the dough with aluminum foil and fill
   with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15
   minutes until beginning to brown at the edges.
   Remove from the oven and carefully remove
   the foil and weights. Increase the oven
   temperature to 375 degrees.


3. Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes into ½-inch
   slices. Place in a colander to drain excess
   tomato liquid for 20 minutes.


4. Spread ¼ cup pesto in an even layer over
   the parbaked tart crust. Sprinkle the shredded

mozzarella over the pesto. Sprinkle the fresh

basil and oregano over the cheese.

5. In a medium bowl, prepare the custard:
   Whisk together the eggs, cream, salt and
   pepper until combined.


6. Place the sliced tomatoes evenly over the
   cheese and herbs in overlapping concentric
   circles.


7. Pour the custard evenly over the tomato
   slices. Swirl the pan to evenly distribute the
   liquid. Bake until the filling is set and won’t
   jiggle when shaken, about 35 minutes.


8. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly
   before serving warm. This tart can also be
   served at room temperature.

Note: Packaged pie dough is an excellent

shortcut for weeknight meals, and the tart

crust can be parbaked a day in advance.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO TART

The richness of eggs, cream and

cheese, the sharp, herbal flavors of

pesto, and the juicy, acidic qualities of

fresh tomatoes form a combination

that calls for an incisive white or rosé.

The options seem endless. The universe of Italian

white wines offers many fitting choices, as does the

world of Provençal-style rosés. Those are the obvi-

ous selections. An aligoté from Burgundy would be

brilliant. So would a pinot blanc from Germany or

Austria, where it might also be called weissburgun-

der, or a silvaner. You could try a riesling as well,

dry or sweet, or a sauvignon blanc. Many dry

sparkling wines would go with this tart. If you

really wanted a red, I would opt for dry, lively and

thirst-quenching, with good acidity and no appar-

ent tannins, like an inexpensive barbera.

ERIC ASIMOV

AND TO DRINK...