Bloomberg Businessweek - USA (2020-08-10)

(Antfer) #1
The rapid growth of online shopping may be the dominant
retail storyline of the past decade, but e-commerce in the
liquor industry remains something of an exotic curiosity.
Don’t blame the alcohol. After Prohibition, regulation
in the U.S. was left to individual states, which means that,
including the territories and commonwealths, there are
54 separate sets of logistics for a potential purveyor to nav-
igate. The byzantine landscape is confounded further by a
three-tiered system in which suppliers and retailers can con-
nect only through distributors.
Charting a surprisingly seamless course through these
murky waters is the Spirits Network, a “shoppable streaming
entertainment channel” that started in September 2019 with
around-the-clock programming. It’s availableondemandand
freeonlineorthroughitsapptoyourpreferreddevice,though
youneedtosignupwitha creditcardtoenableo
chasing.Byintegratingbuyingopportunitiesinto
content,it positionsitselfsomewherebetween
andQVC.AnAmazonLive,butforliquor.
Itairsbothlicensedcontentandorig
shows,whichcurrentlyconsistofabouta do
titles.#WhiskyWednesdaysisbuiltaround
themed,virtualtastings.ThehostofHome
BarHerois “liquidchef ”RobFloyd,who
walksyouthroughclassiccocktailprepa-
rations.BourbonpersonalityPeggyNoe
Stevensshowsuptodemonstratehowto
batchManhattans,andFlavienDesoblin,
whoownsBrandyLibraryinManhattan,
is a ubiquitouspresence.
Anytimea bottleis mentionedina show,
a littlepop-up“buy-bar”appearsinthe
lowerleftcornerofthescreen Clickthat and
you’retak
continues
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The concept is on firmer footing now that the coronavirus
has altered how Americans access their booze. In the first two
weeks of April, e-commerce for adult beverages rose almost
fivefold compared to the same period last year, according
to Nielsen Holdings Plc. Sales on Drizly, the largest alcohol
delivery app, have risen 300% since mid-March. Kantar, a data
insights company, suggests a third of these shoppers could per-
manently alter their buying habits.
Buzzell says the network has a subscription base in the tens
of thousands. A $99-per-month Enthusiast package includes
one bottle of midshelf liquor (think Bushmills 10) mailed to you
based on your flavor profile on the site. A $149 Connoisseur
membership bumps to top-shelf territory with a bottle of, say,
18-year-oldsinglemalt from the Glenrothes or Bunnahabhain.
Bothpaidtiersincludebarwareanda conciergeserviceto
highlyallocatedPappyVanWinkleandnotori-
usiveYamazaki25-year-oldwhiskies.
heplatform,it’seasytotogglethroughsnippets
f t ndingcontent,andbelowthatarerows
commendedprogramsyoucantailorto
drinkingspecifications.Mostfeatureno
thanthreeepisodes,butthecontentcon-
entlybrandishesimpressiveproduction
alues;expectmultiplecameraanglesand
tudio-qualitylightingandsound.
TheSpiritsNetworkhasno“interruptive
dvertising,”butthetrade-offis theinev-
ableappearanceofsponsoredcontent.
iquorbehemothDiageoPlcis oneofthe
rimaryspenders,andit shows:Affiliated
randssuchasDonJuliotequilaandBulleit
ourbonappearacrossthe“relatedprod-
ucts”sectionwearingconspicuousbanners.In
theoriginalprogramming,thecompany’smyr-
adbottlingsoftenenjoycenterstage.
I didn’tseeanysmallcraftproducerspart-
onthe platform,and I doubtthey havethe
forsuchanexpense—especiallynow.Theyrarely
theshowseither,whichis a shame.
nallywe’vereliedonlocalbottleshopsandbar-
tolearnwhat’snewandnext.Inanuncertain
e,whenin-personrelationshipsaren’ta given,
piritsNetworkcouldtrytappingintothatsame
apporttohighlightsomethingobscureyetsensa-
hentheydo,I won’thesitatetoraisemyglass.

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62


HAND: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTLES: COURTESY SPIRITS NETWORK

CRITIC Bloomberg Pursuits August 10, 2020

The Spirits Network offers a tantalizing taste of home shopping’s
possibilities for cocktail lovers. By Brad Japhe

AS SIPPED ON TV


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