178 homebuilding.co.uk
The Build
i will usually
bin the
supplied
screws and
replace them
with a quality
brandillusion that makes the bottom hinge
appear nearer to the floor if you space
them equally. If you are fitting a third hinge
it generally gets installed centrally, between
the two hinges.7
If you are fitting to an existing frame,
mark the door from the cutouts that are
already there. Use a hinge as a template to
mark below your top line on the door and
above your bottom one. It helps to shade
between the two to make sure you cut out
the same side on both the door and hinge.8
Clamp the door in your workbench and
use a hinge folded back on itself as a
template to transfer the marks to the edge
of the door — a Stanley knife works well
for this.9
Use a sharp chisel the same width as the
cutout and do a series of cuts using a
mallet. The idea is to try and use the same
force with each tap so the cuts are an even
depth. You should then be able to use the
chisel alone to even out the depth.10
Do this until your hinges fit perfectly
flush, then do the same with the door
frame (you won’t have to do this if you’re
fitting to an existing frame). This is the
point at which it is easy to cut the wrong
side of the mark, so offer the door up again
to check before you do any chiselling.11
Next you need to fix the hinges.
The best way to drill hinges is with a
self-centring, spring-loaded drill bit, but
a normal bit will suffice if you are careful
to drill in the centre of each hole. I will
usually bin the supplied screws (if there
are any) and replace them with a quality
brand, such as Spax or Bullet. Don’t forget
to drill the frame as well before screwing
the hinges to the door — and try to get the
writing on the hinges the right way up!12
If you marked the door to allow for
a new floor covering cut it to size now.13
Offer the door up to the frame in its
open position and screw it into place.
This, again, is a lot easier with a willing
helper, but it can be done with the help of
a board lifter, or two chisels arranged like
a seesaw under the door so you can lift
the door into place with your foot while
screwing the hinges into place.14
Close the door and do the 20p test
again. If it needs adjusting away from
the hinges use a thin card packer cut to fit
behind the hinge. To go toward the hinge
side you will need to shave a bit more out
of the cutout. Repeat the 20p test until you
are happy with the fit and the door opens
and closes easily.15
Decide on the height of the door
handle (usually halfway up the door)
and mark this position on the edge of
the door. Find the centre and mark with
a sliding square, then use the square to
transfer the door height around both sides
of the door.16
If you are fitting a barrel latch then
you need to measure the length and
diameter. Most chippies use a drill and
either a spade or auger bit to drill the latch
hole, but I maintain that an old-fashioned
brace with a nice sharp bit is still the best
tool for this job. Mark the drill bit with a
piece of tape or a cable tie to the depth of
your latch.17
Chock the door half open with a
wooden wedge and drill the latch
carefully, taking care to stay parallel to the
door. Use the square to measure the barrel
from the face to the centre of the handle
shaft and transfer this on both sides.18
Drill carefully from both sides into
the centre. Don’t attempt to drill right
through from one side; you will be out of
line at best and the breakout as the drill
comes through can often be outside the
area that the handle will cover.sTep bysTep