The New York Times Magazine - USA (2020-08-23)

20 8.23.

At this point in my career, being able to
off er cooking advice is a big part of my
job. It doesn’t matter that I feel like an
impostor sometimes — there’s an expec-
tation that I’ll be able to handle any cook-
ing question. I deal with this by openly
admitting when I don’t know something
and then letting in-depth research guide
me to a satisfying answer. (It helps that
I’m usually genuinely curious to fi nd out.)

I used to frequent libraries and stand at

the shoulders of cooks, furiously taking

notes, then call with follow-up questions.

I would often visit immigrant communi-

ties to eat the same dish at several restau-

rants to learn about variations.

But the pandemic has changed how

I can pursue answers. The fl avor touch-

stones and other sensory cues I once

scavenged for in my reporting aren’t

available to me right now, because I’m

not observing other cooks or tasting their

food before I sit down to write. Because

I can’t use fi rsthand experience to guide

my storytelling right now, I’ve started to

depend on the vibrant taste memories of

others instead.

I had to rely on this new way while

recording an episode of ‘‘Home Cook-

ing,’’ the podcast I started with my friend

Sabudana khichdi,

with tapioca,

peanuts, potatoes

and spices.

Your Next Top 5 Comfort Food: I had never

heard of sabudana khichdi, a savory tapioca pilaf,

but it’s all I want to eat now.

Photograph by Heami Lee Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.

Eat By Samin Nosrat