EXPLODED VIEW
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DRAWER PULL
TABL ES & C HAIRSTABLES & CHAIRS^111717
the clamps would pull straight on the angled legs.
After letting the glue dry on these, I put one of the leg as-
semblies flat on my bench. I put glue in the mortises, and put in
the upper-back rail, the small rail below the drawer, and the lower
rails, with the stretcher in place between them. I then brushed
glue on the tenons, and placed the second leg assembly on top.
Turning the table upright on my bench, I clamped the joints and
began to worry about the drawer.
Half-blind dovetailed drawers don’t bother me, but I’d never
made one with the face tilted back at an angle. I decided to lay
out the tails with the same angles they would have if the drawer
front were vertical. This makes the top and bottom angles of the
tails different in relation to the slanted drawer front which made
the layout tricky, but it looked right when the joints were com-
pleted.
After cutting the tails by hand, I laid out the pins on the ends of
the drawer front, and removed most of the waste with an upcut
spiral bit in my trim router. This speeds things up, and gives a per-
fectly flat surface where the back of the tail rests on the bottom
of the pin. I then used a chisel to pare down to the layout lines.
The pull was made from a cutoff piece from one of the legs.
I trimmed it down to 1^1 ⁄ 4 " x 1^1 ⁄ 4 " by about 3" long. The pull
finishes at 1^1 ⁄ 8 " but the extra length gave me something to hold
on to while cutting it to shape. I laid out the shape of the pull on
two adjacent faces, and cut it out on the band saw. I didn’t worry
about the exact size of the radius below the pyramid shaped top;
that would come from the shape of my rasp.
After cutting one face, I taped the scraps back on the block
with clear packing tape and cut the adjacent side. With the rough
cutting complete, I clamped the extra length in my vise, and fin-
ished shaping the pull with a rasp. The finished pull is held to the
drawer front with a #8 x 1^1 ⁄ 4 " screw from inside the drawer.
I wanted an authentic looking fi nish, but didn’t want to go to
the trouble of fuming it with ammonia. I used W.D. Lockwood
Dark Fumed Oak aniline dye (wdlockwood.com or 866-293-8913)
diluted with alcohol. I brushed on the dye, and wiped it with a
rag. I then brushed on two coats of amber shellac. After letting
the shellac dry, I attached the top with fi gure-eight fasteners. I
took off the gloss of the shellac with a Scotch-Brite pad and ap-
plied a coat of paste wax.
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