224 4
A Sharp Edge and a Built-in Guide
The fi rst trick is to use a chisel that is as sharp as you can make it.
The end grain of quartersawn white oak will mock you if you try to
pare it with anything less than a keen edge, and it will wear that
edge quickly. Keep your stones handy; you’ll need to hone a few
times before you’re through.
Angle the chisel so that the fl at of the chisel rests against the
long, fl at edge of the mortise. From that position, simply rotate the
business end of the chisel into the corner while keeping the chisel
tight against the mortise edge. Get your shoulder over the chisel,
and use your body weight as you bring the chisel to vertical.
After a clean line is established in the corner, back the chisel
away from the corner and press down, or give it a good smack
with a mallet. The short, long-grain edges are easier to pare. Place
the edge of the chisel in the knife line made during layout. A push
or a tap will do it.
If your chisel work is less than perfect, a small joinery fl oat can
be used to refi ne the corner. Other than the corners, the mortises
should be in good shape, thanks to the router and the template.
It is important to leave a clean, square edge on the show side.
What goes on behind that can remain a secret, and the joint will
be strong.
Tenon Time
To make sure the through-joints look good, I wait until I’m done
with the mortises before I start on the tenons. The mortises may
grow a little as they are worked, but no one will ever know as long
as the tenons fi t. I place the board to be tenoned on end, and mark
the cuts directly from the mortises.
I cut the shoulder and get a close fi t in thickness before wor-
rying about the width of the tenons. I knife in the shoulder line,
and clamp a straightedge on the line. With a top-bearing bit in the
router, I can sneak up on the right size. I make the fi rst cuts thicker
than needed, then measure both the tenon and the mortise with
dial calipers.
I then lower the bit by a little less than half the difference of the
Miters, too. 45 ̊ cuts in the fence guide the saw to cut the short miters. Preserve
t h e lin e at t his p oint , an d w or k d ow n t o i t w hile fi tting.
Complex geometry. Test the fi t often while fi tting the miters. Trimming one
e d g e w ill le n g t h e n or s h or t e n an ad jace nt e d g e as w e ll.
Sequence is everything. The parts of the door need to be assembled in order. Do yourself a favor by making a dry run, then use a slow-setting glue.
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