Classic Arts and Crafts Furniture 14 Timeless Designs-2

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tises flush to the template. I used the smallest diameter flush

trim bit I had to minimize the amount of material left in the

corners. With the template still clamped to the panel, I used

the edges of the mortise in the template to guide the chisel

in the corners. A riffler and a flat rasp completed the work on

the mortises.

Dados and Rabbets

On the inside of the end panels there is a dado to hold the

bottom and a rabbet from the top down to the dado to

house the back. I made both of these cuts with a router and

a^3 ⁄ 4 "-diameter straight bit. I used a shop-made T-square jig

for the dado, and used the router’s edge guide to make the

rabbet, stopping at the dado for the bottom. I also ran a^3 ⁄ 4 "-

wide by^1 ⁄ 4 "-deep rabbet along the back edge of the cabinet

bottom.

With the work on the side panels complete, I turned to the

tenons on the ends of the two arched rails that sit below the

bottom and penetrate the sides.

I always like to "sneak up" on the fit of tenons, especially

when they are exposed. The tricky part with through tenons

is that the final cut that yields a good fit must also be smooth

enough to give a good finish. I made the initial cuts on the

table saw, using a jig that rides on the fence as shown.

With the bottom in place in its dado, I held the rails in

place, and marked the locations of the top and bottom of the

tenons directly from the mortises in the end panels. I made

these cuts on the band saw, then I cleaned up all the saw

marks with a shoulder plane. As I got close to a good fit, I

switched to a card

scraper. Once I had

the tenons fitting

nicely, I took a piece

of^3 ⁄ 32 "-thick scrap,

and placed it on

the outside of the

cabinet with its edge

against the tenon. I

then marked a pencil

line around the ten-

ons. This established

a starting point for

the rounded ends of

the exposed tenons.

I used my block

plane and a rasp

to bevel and round

over the ends of

the tenons, shown

below.

After the tenons are trimmed to fi t with a shoulder plane and scraper, the

exposed ends are rounded with a block plane.

To control glue squeeze-out on the exposed tenons, I get the tenon started

in the mortise, then apply glue directly to the tenon.

With the rails already glued to one stile, the shiplapped boards for the

back panel are slipped into the groove in the rail. When they were all in

place, I glued on the remaining stile.

Supplies

Lee Valley Tools

800-871-8158 | leevalley.com

1 X 13 ⁄ 8 " mortise cabinet lock

#00N25.35, $14.90

1 X 1 ⁄ 2 " extruded brass escutcheon

#00A03.01, $3.90

Rockler

800-279-4441 | rockler.com

2 X Antique brass ball tip hinges 3"

long x 2" wide

#56962, $35.69 pair

8 X Desktop fasteners

#21650, $5.49/package of 10

Craftsman Plans

craftsmanplans.com

1 X Large format shop drawings, includes

full size details and cut list, #GST700,

$14.95

Prices as of publication date.

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