Inca weavings were produced with two principal materials: camelid fibers and
cotton. The preferred materials for the highland-dwelling Inca peoples were
fibers of the four native camelids—the domesticated llama and alpaca and the
wild vicuña and guanaco (see Animals, domesticated). Fibers of domesticated
camelids were most common in highland weavings, although few examples
survive, due to poor preservation in the rainy highland environment. Textiles
made of cotton, or a combination of cotton and camelid fibers, were common on
the coast, where preservation is good.
Inca weavers produced cloth in two major categories in terms of quality. The
finest, most expertly produced weavings were known as cumbi. These fabrics,
woven by male or female specialists called cumbicamayoc, were restricted to the
Incas and those who were given cumbi as gifts. The acllacuna, who lived in
state-run production facilities, also produced fine textiles. They were overseen
by senior women who no doubt were master weavers themselves. Textiles made
of cumbi cloth were stored in great quantities in state storehouses from where
they were dispensed by the Inca or his agents for strategic political purposes.
A weaver at a horizontal loom in Yanaoca, province of Canas, Cuzco, Peru.
Camilo Alata. TAFOS Photographic Archive/PUCP, Lima, Peru.