The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2020-11-08)

The Sunday Times Magazine • 51

Will Lyons

T

he crackle of bonfires, the

smell of wood smoke, longer

nights and heavy dew in the

morning. With winter nearly upon

us, now is the time for a warming

glass of intensely coloured red

wine, something that is

unashamedly bold and delights in

Go to Spain for winter warmth

— and no need to quarantine

2018 CUNE RIOJA
BLANCO
SAINSBURY’S,
£10.35
White rioja can be an
absolute pleasure
and pairs well with
dishes such as
risotto, seafood and
pasta. This barrel-
fermented example
has a creamy,
buttery aroma and
a soft, silky texture.
The American oak
shines through.

its rich, red fruit, creamy oak and

soft, smooth texture.

I’m drawn to two regions in

northern Spain, just two hours

from each other: Rioja and Ribera

del Duero. Ribera is arguably the

less famous, having burst on to the

scene in the late 1990s, with

estates such as Pesquera, Dominio

de Pingus, Mauro and Alión

hitting the headlines and vying for

attention with the region’s most

famous and established estate,

Vega Sicilia.

The nights are cool and the days

hot in Ribera, imparting more

acidity and intensity in the wine.

As Beth Willard, who has been

2011 ALTO DEL

OBRE RESERVA

RIOJA

TANNERS, £15

A blend of 90 per

cent tempranillo

and 10 per cent

mazuelo, this is

a smooth,

traditional, creamy

rioja with notes of

dark fruit, vanilla

and other spices,

plus oak. Very

good value for a

nine-year-old wine.

2017 BARON

DE LEY

VARIETALES

GRACIANO RIOJA

CO-OP, £12

An old favourite,

stocked in the

Co-op, Baron de Ley

is an intense, soft

rioja made from 100

per cent graciano,

with plenty of red

fruit and a good

texture and

structure. Perfect

with a Sunday roast.

2016 THE

SOCIETY’S

EXHIBITION

RIBERA DEL

DUERO

THE WINE

SOCIETY, £15

This is the society’s

first Exhibition

bottling of a ribera,

working with the

small Bohórquez

property. It has a

rich, velvety style

and a trademark

flick of acidity.

2013 PAGO DE

SANGARA

SELECCIóN

ESPECIAL RIBERA

DEL DUERO

BOOTH’S, £25.50

I’ll be the first to

admit this is quite

a big spend, but it’s

worth every penny.

It’s bold and rich

with attractive dark

fruit — think plums

— some smoky

character and a

polished, silky finish.

2016 CELESTE

CRIANZA RIBERA

DEL DUERO

THE DARTMOUTH

WINE COMPANY,

£15.50

I’ve long been a fan

of this Celeste made

by the world-famous

Torres wine dynasty.

It combines all the

rich creaminess

one would expect

from a tempranillo,

but balanced

with acidity.

buying these wines commercially

for more than a decade, says:

“They are bolder, more in-your-

face than rioja, but perhaps harder

to find for less than £10.”

They make for amiable

companions with rioja, a wine that

now comes in various styles,

including some very good

unoaked reds made with the

garnacha grape. But sometimes

it’s the classic style, aged in

American oak with an unctuous,

creamy vanilla character, that

gives the most pleasure —

especially at this time of year n

Twitter: @Will_Lyons

Instagram: @mrwill_lyons

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