7 November 2020 | New Scientist | 51The back pages
STOCKF
OOD/AKSAKOVA,^
VALERIASam Wong is social media
editor and self-appointed
chief gourmand at
New Scientist. Follow him
@samwong1These articles are
posted each week at
newscientist.com/makerWhat you need
Langoustines
A yellow bell pepper
Mayonnaise
Lemon juice
Vanilla essence
Freshly ground coffee beans
WHY do some flavours go so well
together? According to one school
of thought, ingredients that pair
well have key aroma molecules
in common. Strawberries, for
example, share aromatic
compounds with chocolate,
basil and balsamic vinegar –
which may explain why they
complement each other.
The idea has been embraced by
chefs such as Heston Blumenthal,
inspiring surprising combinations
like white chocolate and caviar.
On Foodpairing, a website created
by chef Peter Coucquyt and
Belgian food scientists Bernard
Lahousse and Johan Langenbick,
the chemical profiles of thousands
of ingredients are used to generate
molecular matches for chefs and
the food industry. Now, their
insights are available in a new book,
The Art & Science of Foodpairing,
containing suggested pairings for
hundreds of ingredients, along
with a few recipe ideas.
Chocolate is a suggested pairing
for many ingredients in the book,
reflecting the complexity of its
aroma profile. Its roasted flavour
works well with bacon, which also
contains the chocolate-scented
chemical 3-methylbutanal.
As much as I enjoyed chocolate
mousse with crispy bacon and
other combinations from the
book, I am not entirely sold
on the idea that shared aroma
compounds determine which
flavours pair well. Typically,
dozens of volatile compounds
contribute to an ingredient’s
aroma. If a pair of foods have two
or three in common, it doesn’tFrom chocolate and strawberries to bacon and eggs, how well
do we really understand food pairing, asks Sam WongScience of cooking
Pairing flavours like a pro
mean that others won’t suppress,
overshadow or clash. What’s more,
don’t the most interesting pairings
work because they complement
each other, offering difference
rather than more of the same?
Barry Smith, a sensory scientist
and philosopher at the School of
Advanced Study, University of
London, also finds the shared
compounds idea too simple.
“We need insights from food
chemistry, sensory science and
cross-cultural studies,” he says.
Smith points out that some
power couples of the flavour world
work because of taste, not smell.
Bacon and eggs, ham and cheese,
tomatoes and anchovies – these
all provide two kinds of umami
that act synergistically to heighten
the intensity of flavours.
Whatever truly explains whysome flavours work well together,
the standard repertoire of pairings
has only scratched the surface of
the delicious combinations out
there. The book is a welcome
prompt to try new ones, which
made me feel like I was eating
at a fancy restaurant at home.
I heartily recommend this dish
inspired by the book: roast a yellow
bell pepper, blend it with some
mayonnaise to make a smooth
sauce, then add a squeeze of lemon
juice and a few drops of vanilla
essence. Pan-fry the langoustines,
serve them with the sauce and
sprinkle some freshly ground
coffee on top. It tastes incredible –
and you don’t need to know why. ❚Feedback
Measuring buildings
with smartphones in
61 different ways p56Tom Gauld for
New Scientist
A cartoonist’s take
on the world p55Almost the last word
Sneezing in
succession and
triple rainbows p54Puzzles
Try our quick
crossword, quiz and
brain-teaser p52Twisteddoodles
for New Scientist
Picturing the lighter
side of life p56Science of cooking
appears every four weeks
Next week
Stargazing at home