PARIS INSIDER’S GUIDE XVIII
BISTROT BLANC BEC
15, rue des Panoyaux, 20th. Tel. 0143584545.- Noon to 2:30pm and 7:30pm to10:30pm•Closed Sunday and Monday
- Average price:€45.
La Boulangerie gave way to the Bistrot Blanc Bec, a restaurant created by Jean-François,
Christophe and Frédéric, a trio of fine food lovers. The decor was redone in a revisited bistro
style that is rather sober, but works well enough. It is the ideal setting to enjoy the cuisine of
Arnaud Brière, who has worked in the kitchens of the Frères Pourcel, La Fontaine Gayon and
even... La Boulangerie as sous-chef. We loved his marinated salmon with blinis and cranberries
(€9), his slightly seared foie gras with a generously buttered home-made brioche (€13), which
we followed by a pleasant leg of hare with grand veneur sauce (€20) served in a casserole
with celery, salsify and rutabagas done to perfection, and a slow-cooked shoulder of veal (€21)
accompanied by a scrumptious macaroni and bacon gratin. The chocolate/Espelette pepper
ganache (€9) and grapefruit/makrut lime tart (€9) were equally delightful. As was the service,
attentive without being stifling. A small bar at the entrance offers the perfect place to sip on
a Manhattan (€9) or a Margarita (€11) as you wait for the rest of your party to join you. In
keeping with the bistro spirit, it boasts a very reasonably priced list of nice bottles from small
wine growers (ranging from€19 to€110), around twenty of which are available by the glass
(from€4.50 to€7.50). Irreproachable lunch prix-fixe menu at€16 (starter/main dish or main
dish/dessert) or€18 for all three courses.
TERRASS’’ HOTEL
12, rue Joseph de Maistre, 18th.
Tel. 0146067285. http://www.terrass-hotel.com- Noon to 2pm and 7pm to 10pm•Closed Sunday for
dinner and Monday•Average price:€55.
The Terrass’’ Hôtel used to have a rather dull dining room
on the ground floor, but a superb rooftop terrace with an
exceptional view over Paris, making it a stomping grounds
for celebrities in Montmartre. Recent renovations,
however, have brought all of the restaurant spaces
together on the eighth floor, so that diners can enjoy this
incredible view of the city year round. But to eat under
the stars, you need luck on your side! The terrace doesn't
take reservations, so you have to book a table inside and
hope there's still room outside. Otherwise, you'll have
to be content to admire Paris through the vast bay
windows of the dining room, which is already an amazing
experience in itself. Talented Éric Lurthy delivers the
promise of a gourmet meal with salmon gravlax (€14),
followed by a filet of duckling with roasted figs and
turnips braised in balsamic vinegar (€24), and a tiramisu
revisited with tropical fruit (€13). Prix-fixe menu at€ 34
and lunch special at€26 (except weekends and holidays).
Sunday brunch at€39 from noon to 3pm.
MAMA SHELTER
109 rue de Bagnolet, 20th.
Tel. 0143484848.- Noon to 9pm and 7pm to 1:30am
- Rooftop 7pm to 11:30pm•Open daily
- Valet parking•Average price: €50.
Now the talented triple-starred chef Guy Savoy
has taken over the menu of this arty hotel, without
denaturing its family style, keeping it as low-key
as the service and atmosphere which are won-
derfully laid back. Something sure to please the
carefree clientele and
numerous celebrities
who love to come to
"Mama" to sip on one
of the signature
cocktails at the large
bar, before taking a
table to enjoy the
chicken or vegetable
steamed gyoza with
ra-yu sauce (€14 for 2),
the (very) generous
Argentinean rib-eye
(400g) with Bearnaise
sauce and parsley
potatoes (€42) or the
house specialty:
macaroni casserole
with Mostellos ham and soft-cooked egg (€18).
And if you still have room, a wide range of
desserts will ensure you finish your meal on a
sweet note (€8to€11 for individual desserts and
€19 to€24 to share). Pleasant terrace overlooking
the former Petite Ceinture railway tracks. And on
June 1, you can head up to the magnificent, newly
renovated rooftop patio. But space is limited and
you can only make last-minute reservations on
the Mama Shelter website starting at 2pm!
© ABDDELWAHEB DIDI.© MAMA SHELTER.圀漀爀氀搀䴀愀最猀⸀渀攀琀圀漀爀氀搀䴀愀最猀⸀渀攀琀
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