to the mainland of Gilolo by the advice of our Gani men, who knew the coast
well. Just as we got across we had another northerly squall with rain, and had to
anchor on the edge of a coral reef for the night. I called up my men about three
on the morning of the 24th, but there was no wind to help us, and we rowed
along slowly. At daybreak there was a fair breeze from the south, but it lasted
only an hour. All the rest of the day we had nothing but calms, light winds
ahead, and squalls, and made very little progress.
On the 25th we drifted out to the middle of the channel, but made no progress
onward. In the afternoon we sailed and rowed to the south end of Kaióa, and by
midnight reached the village. I determined to stay here a few days to rest and
recruit, and in hopes of getting better weather. I bought some onions and other
vegetables, and plenty of eggs, and my men baked fresh sago cakes. I went daily
to my old hunting-ground in search of insects, but with very poor success. It was
now wet, squally weather, and there appeared a stagnation of insect life. We
Staved five days, during which time twelve persons died in the village, mostly
from simple intermittent fever, of the treatment of which the natives are quite
ignorant. During the whole of this voyage I had suffered greatly from sunburnt
lips, owing to having exposed myself on deck all day to loon after our safety
among the shoals and reefs near Waigiou. The salt in the air so affected them
that they would not heal, but became excessively painful, and bled at the
slightest touch, and for a long time it was with great difficulty I could eat at all,
being obliged to open my mouth very wide, and put in each mouthful with the
greatest caution. I kept them constantly covered with ointment, which was itself
very disagreeable, and they caused me almost constant pain for more than a
month, as they did not get well till I had returned to Ternate, and was able to
remain a week indoors.
A boat which left for Ternate, the day after we arrived, was obliged to return
the next day, on account of bad weather. On the 31st we went out to the
anchorage at the mouth of the harbour, so as to be ready to start at the first
favourable opportunity.
On the 1st of November I called up my men at one in the morning, and we
started with the tide in our favour. Hitherto it had usually been calm at night, but
on this occasion we had a strong westerly squall with rain, which turned our prau
broadside, and obliged us to anchor. When it had passed we went on rowing all
night, but the wind ahead counteracted the current in our favour, and we
advanced but little. Soon after sunrise the wind became stronger and more
adverse, and as we had a dangerous lee-shore which we could not clear, we had
to put about and get an offing to the W.S.W. This series of contrary winds and