fearful din the whole voyage. The rowers are men sent by the Sultan of Ternate.
They get about threepence a day, and find their own provisions. Each man had a
strong wooden "betel" box, on which he generally sat, a sleeping-mat, and a
change of clothes—rowing naked, with only a sarong or a waistcloth. They sleep
in their places, covered with their mat, which keeps out the rain pretty well.
They chew betel or smoke cigarettes incessantly; eat dry sago and a little salt
fish; seldom sing while rowing, except when excited and wanting to reach a
stopping-place, and do not talk a great deal. They are mostly Malays, with a
sprinkling of Alfuros from Gilolo, and Papuans from Guebe or Waigiou.
One afternoon we stayed at Makian; many of the men went on shore, and a
great deal of plantains, bananas, and other fruits were brought on board. We then
went on a little way, and in the evening anchored again. When going to bed for
the night, I put out my candle, there being still a glimmering lamp burning, and,
missing my handkerchief, thought I saw it on a box which formed one side of
my bed, and put out my hand to take it. I quickly drew back on feeling
something cool and very smooth, which moved as I touched it. "Bring the light,
quick," I cried; "here's a snake." And there he was, sure enough, nicely coiled
up, with his head just raised to inquire who had disturbed him. It was mow
necessary to catch or kill him neatly, or he would escape among the piles of
miscellaneous luggage, and we should hardly sleep comfortably. One of the ex-
convicts volunteered to catch him with his hand wrapped up in a cloth, but from
the way he went about it I saw he was nervous and would let the thing go, so I
would mot allow him to make the attempt. I them got a chopping-knife, and
carefully moving my insect nets, which hung just over the snake and prevented
me getting a free blow, I cut him quietly across the back, holding him down
while my boy with another knife crushed his head. On examination, I found he
had large poison fangs, and it is a wonder he did not bite me when I first touched
him.
Thinking it very unlikely that two snakes had got on board at the same time, I
turned in and went to sleep; but having all the time a vague dreamy idea that I
might put my hand on another one, I lay wonderfully still, not turning over once
all night, quite the reverse of my usual habits. The next day we reached Ternate,
and I ensconced myself in my comfortable house, to examine all my treasures,
and pack them securely for the voyage home.