populous village in the mountains. Towards the east and the extreme west are a
few others, with which exceptions all the inhabitants of Ceram are collected on
the coast. In the northern and eastern districts they are mostly Mahometans,
while on the southwest coast, nearest Amboyna, they are nominal Christians. In
all this part of the Archipelago the Dutch make very praiseworthy efforts to
improve the condition of the aborigines by establishing schoolmasters in every
village (who are mostly natives of Amboyna or Saparua, who have; been
instructed by the resident missionaries), and by employing native vaccinators to
prevent the ravages of smallpox. They also encourage the settlement of
Europeans, and the formation of new plantations of cacao and coffee, one of the
best means of raising the condition of the natives, who thus obtain work at fair
wages, and have the opportunity of acquiring something of European tastes and
habits.
My collections here did not progress much better than at my former station,
except that butterflies were a little more plentiful, and some very fine species
were to be found in the morning on the sea-beach, sitting so quietly on the wet
sand that they could be caught with the fingers. In this way I had many fine
specimens of Papilios brought me by the children. Beetles, however, were
scarce, and birds still more so, and I began to think that the handsome species
which I had so often heard were found in Ceram must be entirely confined to the
eastern extremity of the island.
A few miles further worth, at the head of the Bay of Amahay, is situated the
village of Makariki, from whence there is a native path quite across the island to
the north coast. My friend Mr. Rosenberg, whose acquaintance I had made at
New Guinea, and who was now the Government superintendent of all this part of
Ceram, returned from Wahai, on the north coast, after I had been three weeks at
Awaiya, and showed me some fine butterflies he had obtained on the mountain
streams in the interior. He indicated a spot about the centre of the island where
he thought I might advantageously stay a few days. I accordingly visited
Makariki with him the next day, and he instructed the chief of the village to
furnish me with men to carry my baggage, and accompany me on my excursion.
As the people of the village wanted to be at home on Christmas-day, it was
necessary to start as soon as possible; so we agreed that the men should be ready
in two days, and I returned to make my arrangements.
I put up the smallest quantity of baggage possible for a six days' trip, and on
the morning of December 18th we left Makariki, with six men carrying my
baggage and their own provisions, and a lad from Awaiya, who was accustomed
to catch butterflies for me. My two Amboyna hunters I left behind to shoot and