I was delayed at Kissa-laut just four weeks, although after the first three days I
saw that it would be quite useless for me to stay, and begged the Rajah to give
me a prau and men to carry me on to Goram. But instead of getting one close at
hand, he insisted on sending several miles off; and when after many delays it at
length arrived, it was altogether unsuitable and too small to carry my baggage.
Another was then ordered to be brought immediately, and was promised in three
days, but doable that time elapsed and none appeared, and we were obliged at
length to get one at the adjoining village, where it might have been so much
more easily obtained at first. Then came caulking and covering over, and
quarrels between the owner and the Rajah's men, which occupied more than
another ten days, during all which time I was getting absolutely nothing, finding
this part of Ceram a perfect desert in zoology, although a most beautiful country,
and with a very luxuriant vegetation. It was a complete puzzle, which to this day
I have not been able to understand; the only thing I obtained worth notice during
my month's stay here being a few good land shells.
At length, on April 4th, we succeeded in getting away in our little boat of
about four tons burthen, in which my numerous boxes were with difficulty
packed so as to leave sleeping and cooling room. The craft could not boast an
ounce of iron or a foot of rope in any part of its construction, nor a morsel of
pitch or paint in its decoration. The planks were fastened together in the usual
ingenious way with pegs and rattans. The mast was a bamboo triangle, requiring
no shrouds, and carrying a long mat sail; two rudders were hung on the quarters
by rattans, the anchor was of wood, and a long and thick rattan; served as a
cable. Our crew consisted of four men, whose pole accommodation was about
three feet by four in the bows and stern, with the sloping thatch roof to stretch
themselves upon for a change. We had nearly a hundred miles to go, fully
exposed to the swell of the Banda sea, which is sometimes very considerable;
but we luckily had it calm and smooth, so that we made the voyage in
comparative comfort.
On the second day we passed the eastern extremity of Ceram, formed of a
group of hummocky limestone hills; and, sailing by the islands of Kwammer and
Keffing, both thickly inhabited, came in sight of the little town of Kilwaru,
which appears to rise out of the sea like a rustic Venice. This place has really a
most extraordinary appearance, as not a particle of land or vegetation can be
seen, but a long way out at sea a large village seems to float upon the water.
There is of course a small island of several acres in extent; but the houses are
built so closely all round it upon piles in the water, that it is completely hidden.
It is a place of great traffic, being the emporium for much of the produce of these