He was to fulfil the important office of cook and housekeeper, for I could not get
any regular servants to go to such a terribly remote country; one might as well
ask a chef de cuisine to go to Patagonia.
On the fifth day that I had spent on board (Dec. 15th) the rain ceased, and
final preparations were made for starting. Sails were dried and furled, boats were
constantly coming and going, and stores for the voyage, fruit, vegetables, fish,
and palm sugar, were taken on board. In the afternoon two women arrived with a
large party of friends and relations, and at parting there was a general
noserubbing (the Malay kiss), and some tears shed. These were promising
symptoms for our getting off the next day; and accordingly, at three in the
morning, the owner came on board, the anchor was immediately weighed, and
by four we set sail. Just as we were fairly off and clear of the other praus, the old
juragan repeated some prayers, all around responding with "Allah il Allah," and
a few strokes on a gong as an accompaniment, concluding with all wishing each
other "Salaamat jalan," a safe and happy journey. We had a light breeze, a calm
sea, and a fine morning, a prosperous commencement of our voyage of about a
thousand miles to the far-famed Aru Islands.
The wind continued light and variable all day, with a calm in the evening
before the land breeze sprang up, were then passing the island of "Tanakaki"
(foot of the land), at the extreme south of this part of Celebes. There are some
dangerous rocks here, and as I was standing by the bulwarks, I happened to spit
over the side; one of the men begged I would not do so just now, but spit on
deck, as they were much afraid of this place. Not quite comprehending, I made
him repeat his request, when, seeing he was in earnest, I said, "Very well, I
suppose there are 'hantus' (spirits) here." "Yes," said he, "and they don't like
anything to be thrown overboard; many a prau has been lost by doing it." Upon
which I promised to be very careful. At sunset the good Mahometans on board
all repeated a few words of prayer with a general chorus, reminding me of the
pleasing and impressive "Ave. Maria" of Catholic countries.
Dec. 20th.-At sunrise we were opposite the Bontyne mountain, said to be one
of the highest in Celebes. In the afternoon we passed the Salayer Straits and had
a little squall, which obliged us to lower our huge mast, sails, and heavy yards.
The rest of the evening we had a fine west wind, which carried us on at near five
knots an hour, as much as our lumbering old tub can possibly go.
Dec. 21st.-A heavy swell from the south-west rolling us about most
uncomfortably. A steady wind was blowing however, and we got on very well.
Dec. 22d.-The swell had gone down. We passed Boutong, a large island, high,
woody, and populous, the native place of some of our crew. A small prau