shifted round to go on the other tack without first hauling down the jibs, and the
booms of the fore and aft sails have to be lowered and completely detached to
perform the same operation. Then there are always a lot of ropes foul of each
other, and all the sails can never be set (though they are so few) without a good
part of their surface having the wind kept out of them by others. Yet praus are
much liked even by those who have had European vessels, because of their
cheapness both in first cost and in keeping up; almost all repairs can be done by
the crew, and very few European stores are required.
Dec. 28th.—This day we saw the Banda group, the volcano first appearing,—
a perfect cone, having very much the outline of the Egyptian pyramids, and
looking almost as regular. In the evening the smoke rested over its summit like a
small stationary cloud. This was my first view of an active volcano, but pictures
and panoramas have so impressed such things on one's mind, that when we at
length behold them they seem nothing extraordinary.
Dec. 30th.—Passed the island of Teor, and a group near it, which are very
incorrectly marked on the charts. Flying-fish were numerous to-day. It is a
smaller species than that of the Atlantic, and more active and elegant in its
motions. As they skim along the surface they turn on their sides, so as fully to
display their beautiful fins, taking a flight of about a hundred yards, rising and
falling in a most graceful manner. At a little distance they exactly resemble
swallows, and no one who sees them can doubt that they really do fly, not
merely descend in an oblique direction from the height they gain by their first
spring. In the evening an aquatic bird, a species of booby (Sula fiber.) rested on
our hen-coop, and was caught by the neck by one of my boys.
Dec. 31st—At daybreak the Ke Islands (pronounced Kay) were in sight,
where we are to stay a few days. About noon we rounded the northern point, and
endeavoured to coast along to the anchorage; but being now on the leeward side
of the island, the wind came in violent irregular gusts, and then leaving us
altogether, we were carried back by a strong current. Just then two boats-load of
natives appeared, and our owner having agreed with them to tow us into harbour,
they tried to do so, assisted by our own boat, but could make no way. We were
therefore obliged to anchor in a very dangerous place on a rocky bottom, and we
were engaged till nearly dark getting hawsers secured to some rocks under
water. The coast of Ke along which we had passed was very picturesque. Light
coloured limestone rocks rose abruptly from the water to the height of several
hundred feet, everywhere broken into jutting peaks and pinnacles, weather-worn
into sharp points and honeycombed surfaces, and clothed throughout with a most
varied and luxuriant vegetation. The cliffs above the sea offered to our view