CHAPTER X. BALI AND LOMBOCK.
(JUNE, JULY, 1856.)
THE islands of Bali and Lombock, situated at the eastern end of Java, are
particularly interesting. They are the only islands of the whole Archipelago in
which the Hindu religion still maintains itself—and they form the extreme points
of the two great zoological divisions of the Eastern hemisphere; for although so
similar in external appearance and in all physical features, they differ greatly in
their natural productions. It was after having spent two years in Borneo, Malacca
and Singapore, that I made a somewhat involuntary visit to these islands on my
way to Macassar. Had I been able to obtain a passage direct to that place from
Singapore, I should probably never have gone near them, and should have
missed some of the most important discoveries of my whole expedition the East.
It was on the 13th of June, 1856, after a twenty days' passage from Singapore
in the "Kembang Djepoon" (Rose of Japan), a schooner belonging to a Chinese
merchant, manned by a Javanese crew, and commanded by an English captain,
that we cast anchor in the dangerous roadstead of Bileling on the north side of
the island of Bali. Going on shore with the captain and the Chinese supercargo, I
was at once introduced to a novel and interesting scene. We went first to the
house of the Chinese Bandar, or chief merchant, where we found a number of
natives, well dressed, and all conspicuously armed with krisses, displaying their
large handles of ivory or gold, or beautifully grained and polished wood.
The Chinamen had given up their national costume and adopted the Malay
dress, and could then hardly be distinguished from the natives of the island—an
indication of the close affinity of the Malayan and Mongolian races. Under the
thick shade of some mango-trees close by the house, several women-merchants
were selling cotton goods; for here the women trade and work for the benefit of
their husbands, a custom which Mahometan Malays never adopt. Fruit, tea,
cakes, and sweetmeats were brought to us; many questions were asked about our
business and the state of trade in Singapore, and we then took a walk to look at
the village. It was a very dull and dreary place; a collection of narrow lanes
bounded by high mud walls, enclosing bamboo houses, into some of which we
entered and were very kindly received.