the Waidono; and when after a week's delay I arrived with my baggage and men
at Modjo-agong, I found them all in the midst of a five days' feast, to celebrate
the circumcision of the Waidono's younger brother and cousin, and had a small
room in an on outhouse given me to stay in. The courtyard and the great open
reception-shed were full of natives coming and going and making preparations
for a feast which was to take place at midnight, to which I was invited, but
preferred going to bed. A native band, or Gamelang, was playing almost all the
evening, and I had a good opportunity of seeing the instruments and musicians.
The former are chiefly gongs of various sizes, arranged in sets of from eight to
twelve, on low wooden frames. Each set is played by one performer with one or
two drumsticks. There are also some very large gongs, played singly or in pairs,
and taking the place of our drums and kettledrums. Other instruments are formed
by broad metallic bars, supported on strings stretched across frames; and others
again of strips of bamboo similarly placed and producing the highest notes.
Besides these there were a flute and a curious two-stringed violin, requiring in
all twenty-four performers. There was a conductor, who led off and regulated the
time, and each performer took his part, coming in occasionally with a few bars
so as to form a harmonious combination. The pieces played were long and
complicated, and some of the players were mere boys, who took their parts with
great precision. The general effect was very pleasing, but, owing to the similarity
of most of the instruments, more like a gigantic musical box than one of our
bands; and in order to enjoy it thoroughly it is necessary to watch the large
number of performers who are engaged in it. The next morning, while I was
waiting for the men and horses who were to take me and my baggage to my
destination, the two lads, who were about fourteen years old, were brought out,
clothed in a sarong from the waist downwards, and having the whole body
covered with yellow powder, and profusely decked with white blossom in
wreaths, necklaces, and armlets, looking at first sight very like savage brides.
They were conducted by two priests to a bench placed in front of the house in
the open air, and the ceremony of circumcision was then performed before the
assembled crowd.
The road to Wonosalem led through a magnificent forest in the depths of
which we passed a fine ruin of what appeared to have been a royal tomb or
mausoleum. It is formed entirely of stone, and elaborately carved. Near the base
is a course of boldly projecting blocks, sculptured in high relief, with a series of
scenes which are probably incidents in the life of the defunct. These are all
beautifully executed, some of the figures of animals in particular, being easily
recognisable and very accurate. The general design, as far as the ruined state of