magnificent amphitheatres. Hundreds of square miles of country are thus
terraced, and convey a striking idea of the industry of the people and the
antiquity of their civilization. These terraces are extended year by year as the
population increases, by the inhabitants of each village working in concert under
the direction of their chiefs; and it is perhaps by this system of village culture
alone, that such extensive terracing and irrigation has been rendered possible. It
was probably introduced by the Brahmins from India, since in those Malay
countries where there is no trace of a previous occupation by a civilized people,
the terrace system is unknown. I first saw this mode of cultivation in Bali and
Lombock, and, as I shall have to describe it in some detail there (see CHAPTER
X.), I need say no more about it in this place, except that, owing to the finer
outlines and greater luxuriance of the country in West Java, it produces there the
most striking and picturesque effect. The lower slopes of the mountains in Java
possess such a delightful climate and luxuriant soil; living is so cheap and life
and property are so secure, that a considerable number of Europeans who have
been engaged in Government service, settle permanently in the country instead
of returning to Europe. They are scattered everywhere throughout the more
accessible parts of the island, and tend greatly to the gradual improvement of the
native population, and to the continued peace and prosperity of the whole
country.
Twenty miles beyond Buitenzorg the post road passes over the Megamendong
Mountain, at an elevation of about 4,500 feet. The country is finely
mountainous, and there is much virgin forest still left upon the hills, together
with some of the oldest coffee-plantations in Java, where the plants have attained
almost the dimensions of forest trees. About 500 feet below the summit level of
the pass there is a road-keeper's hut, half of which I hired for a fortnight, as the
country looked promising for making collections. I almost immediately found
that the productions of West Java were remarkably different from those of the
eastern part of the island; and that all the more remarkable and characteristic
Javanese birds and insects were to be found here. On the very first day, my
hunters obtained for me the elegant yellow and green trogon (Harpactes
Reinwardti), the gorgeous little minivet flycatcher (Pericrocotus miniatus),
which looks like a flame of fire as it flutters among the bushes, and the rare and
curious black and crimson oriole (Analcipus sanguinolentus), all of these species
which are found only in Java, and even seem to be confined to its western
portion.
In a week I obtained no less than twenty-four species of birds, which I had not
found in the east of the island, and in a fortnight this number increased to forty