R2 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 22 , 2020
I scale mine down a bit from
Kennedy’s proportions.
What to serve on the side? At
Parkway, I get the sweet potato
french fries, of course.
I got close to Kennedy’s
creation, but it still left me
longing for the day when I’ll be
home for the holidays and back
at Parkway eating that po’ boy,
just as Kennedy imagines the
day when New Orleanians will
once again line up to order it —
and sit side by side in his
restaurant to dig in.
[email protected]sandwiches.
To approximate New Orleans-
style French bread, I buy the
lightest French-style long loaf or
Belgian pistolets that I can find.
Or I bake a frozen one, such as
Pillsbury French bread. If the
bread is dense, I pull out some of
the soft interior and save it for
making breadcrumbs. To get the
crunch, I lightly toast the
partially hollowed-out loaf until
crisp.
Then, I follow Parkway’s lead,
using hot traditional
Thanksgiving meal leftovers, butstuffing, 4 ounces gravy and 4
ounces cranberry sauce on an 11-
inch loaf of New Orleans-style
French bread.
And there is the rub: I can
make a good facsimile of the
roasted turkey, gravy, cornbread
dressing and cranberry sauce,
but the Leidenheimer bread is
elusive when I’m not in my
hometown.
Leidenheimer is light, with
thin, crunchy exterior crust and
an airy, fluffy interior. This
makes the bread a perfect
partner for overstuffedQuinoa and Roasted Vegetable Bake
With Gruyere4 to 6 servings
Leftovers may be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
From cookbook author and nutritionist Ellie Krieger.Ingredients
lOlive oil, for greasing the dish
l 21 / 2 cups low-fat milk
l 21 / 2 tablespoons all-purpose
flour
l2 cloves garlic, minced or
finely grated
l1 teaspoon mustard powder
l^3 / 4 teaspoon sweet paprika
l 11 / 4 cups (4 ounces) shredded
gruyere cheese, divided
l^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher saltl^1 / 2 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
l3 cups cooked quinoa,
preferably red (from about(^3) / 4 cup/ 41 / 2 ounces uncooked)
l3 cups roasted mixed
vegetables (such as Brussels
sprouts, carrots, cauliflower,
squash), coarsely chopped
Steps
lPosition a baking rack in the
middle of the oven and preheat
to 400 degrees. Brush a 1^1 / 2 - to
2-quart shallow baking dish
with oil.
lIn a medium saucepan over
medium heat, whisk together
the milk and flour until the
flour is dissolved. Add the gar-
lic, mustard and paprika and,
whisking constantly, bring the
mixture to a gentle boil.
R educe the heat to medium-
low and simmer, stirring a few
times, until the mixture has
thickened to the thickness of
cream, about 2 minutes. Add
half of the cheese, the salt and
pepper, and stir until the
cheese is melted and the mix-
ture is smooth, then remove
from the heat. Add the quinoa
and vegetables to the pot and
stir until combined.
lTransfer the mixture to the
baking dish. Top with the
r emaining cheese and bake for
25 to 30 minutes, or until the
mixture is bubbly and the
cheese on top is nicely
browned. Let cool for 5 min-
utes before serving.
Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6): 298
calories, 15 g protein, 34 g carbohydrates,
12 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 25 mg
cholesterol, 296 mg sodium, 5 g dietary
fiber, 3 g sugar
Recipe tested by Olga Massov; email
questions to [email protected]
When this
dish emerges
from the oven,
the first thing
you notice is
how
gloriously
cheesy it is,
with an
alluring,
golden-brown
crust of nutty, funky gruyere.
Scoop into it and you get
to the tender quinoa studded
with pieces of autumnal
roasted vegetables, all
moistened and married in a
light, creamy cheese sauce.
It’s a French-style gratin, in
essence, but with an
unconventional, more
healthful twist centered on
the Peruvian staple “grain.”
That word is in quotes
because while quinoa cooks
up like a grain, it is
technically a seed, with more
protein, fiber and minerals
than most grains.
And while the cheesy
richness of this bake calls
like a siren, that’s because
half of the cheese is
strategically sprinkled on
top, where it gets the most
attention. Overall, it has a
modest amount, as gratins
go, and its sauce is more
healthfully milk-based
instead of relying on cream.
I like to use deep-hued red
quinoa here, simply because
I like how it looks, but the
regular light brown type
works just fine. And you can
use any mix of roasted
vegetables in this dish, too,
making it especially handy
post-Thanksgiving when you
may have some to use up.
This bake is right at home
served alongside roasted
poultry or meat, but it is so
satisfying it also hits the spot
in a larger portion as a
meatless main dish.
[email protected]
Krieger is a registered dietitian,
nutritionist and cookbook author
who hosts public television’s
“Ellie’s Real Good Food.” Learn
more at elliekrieger.com.
Quinoa adds a Peruvian accent to this F rench-style vegetable and gruyere dish
TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Ellie
Krieger
NOURISH
Ingredients
l1 cup cornbread dressing
l1 cup brown turkey gravy, or
more as needed
l7 ounces cooked roast
turkey, light and/or dark
meat, sliced or shredded
l1 (12-inch) loaf French bread
or 2 (6-inch) Belgian-style
pistolets
l^3 / 4 cup whole berry
cranberry sauce
Steps
lPosition a rack in the middle
of the oven and preheat to
350 degrees. Place the dress-
ing in a small ovenproof pan
and transfer to the oven for
about 10 minutes or until
warmed through.
lIn a medium saucepan over
medium heat, add the gravy
and the turkey and toss to-
gether so the meat is heated
through, about 5 minutes.
lHalve the bread lengthwise
down the center and place on
a large, rimmed baking sheet.
Transfer to the oven for about
3 minutes, or until just crisp.
lOn one side of the bread,
spoon on the stuffing and
spread it edge to edge. Top
with the turkey and spoon
the cranberry sauce on top of
the meat. Then, generously
ladle the gravy over the sand-
wich. Cover with the other
side of the bread. If working
with a 12-inch loaf, slice the
sandwich in half with a
sharp, serrated knife and
serve.
Ingredients are too variable for a
meaningful analysis.
Recipe tested by Ann Maloney; email
questions to [email protected]
Food and dining
editor: Joe Yonan •
Voraciously editor: M att Brooks •
Recipes editor: A nn Maloney • Art
director: A manda Soto • Designer:
Twila Waddy • P hoto editor:
Jennifer Beeson Gregory • Food
critic: Tom Sietsema • Staff
writers: T im Carman, G. Daniela
Galarza, Emily Heil, Becky Krystal •
Editorial aide: Kari Sonde • Copy
editors: J im Webster, Jordan
Melendrez • Assignment editor:
Olga Massov | Contact us:
[email protected], 202-334-7575.
The Washington Post, Food, 1301 K
St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071
FOOD
component — the sliced turkey
dark/light meat, dressing, gravy,
whole berry cranberry sauce —
is in its own deli container.
(Patrons can add a bottle of wine
to benefit the Hogs for the
Cause, a nonprofit group that
supports those with pediatric
brain cancer.)
Kennedy sees advantages to
the new arrangement. “It’ll hold
in the refrigerator. You heat it up
on your time, build it how you
want it, with the dressing and
gravy how you want it,” he said,
adding that the packages could
easily serve four, “but two
hungry, hungry people could
take it down.”
Also, he said, now no one who
has stood in that long line gets
angry when Parkway runs out of
the fresh-made ingredients.
Kennedy created the po’ boy
in 2007 as a tribute to
Thanksgiving leftovers. It grew
in popularity each year, so in
2017, the restaurant began using
the sandwich’s fans to raise
money for cancer research
through the Al Copeland
Foundation. People could make a
$100 donation, skip the line and
get their po’ boy right away. This
year, with no line, the
foundation is selling masks at
Parkway and hosting a “dip jar,”
which allows guests to “dip”
their credit card and donate.
I hoped the restaurant, which
sells its roast beef po’ boy on
Goldbelly, the national online
mail-order food company, might
sell the seasonal sandwich that
way as well, but no luck. It takes
too much extra staffing just to
meet the locals’ demand,
Kennedy said.
“There’s no way we could keep
up with it,” he said. “It’s real
labor intensive. We’ve got to
keep it simple.”
Rather than using leftovers,
Parkway cooks everything fresh,
expanding its operation to roast
the whole turkey, something not
normally served. Extra hands
make pans and pans of
cornbread dressing, gravy and
big batches of whole-berry
cranberry relish that are
doctored up in-house — all of
which is layered onto hundreds
of feet of Leidenheimer French
bread loaves.
“It’s a big sandwich.”
Because I cannot order one, I
decided to re-create it. If
building a po’ boy at home,
Kennedy recommends at least 7
ounces of turkey, 12 ounces of
Holiday eating
traditions are
precious for many
of us. We wait all
year long to eat
that certain dish
with our favorite
people.
One of my
Thanksgiving
traditions has
been to join the
long line at Parkway Bakery &
Tavern in my hometown of New
Orleans to get my once-a-year
Thanksgiving po’ boy. The locally
famous overstuffed sandwich,
sold only in November, is
straightforward: French bread is
layered with fresh-roasted
turkey, hot cornbread dressing,
whole-berry cranberry relish
and then drenched in brown
gravy.
This year, there will be no line
at Parkway, but, by God, there
will be turkey po' boys.
General Manager Justin
Kennedy explained that the
popular restaurant has changed
much of the way it does business
due to the pandemic. It has cut
its staff from 50 to 25 and
shortened its operating hours.
And these days, 60 percent of its
regular business is takeout —
even though the restaurant has
an ample patio and limited
indoor seating.
To accommodate the to-go
orders, all 90 spots in its parking
lot are now numbered. People
drive in, call in their order, give
their spot number and wait for a
golf cart-ferried po’ boy to arrive,
he said. A toll-booth-like stand is
manned by the “parking lot
maître d’” who hands out menus
or answers questions. Parkway
also added a walk-up ordering
window for the bar.
But you cannot get the
seasonal Thanksgiving po' boy
that way. This year, the only way
to get it is to call in your order,
prepay with a credit card and
pick it up at the restaurant on a
Tuesday in November.
“There’s no big crazy line, so
it’s working out,” said Kennedy
about the po’ boy’s fans who,
each November, usually snake
around the block, with some
folks arriving early and holding
their spots by sitting in beach
chairs. Social distancing would
have been difficult in that
scenario, he said.
In 2020, the Thanksgiving po’
boy is sold in a kit that makes
two 11-inch po’ boys. Each
Ann
Maloney
DINNER IN
MINUTES
New Orleans knows what to do with all those h oliday leftovers
Thanksgiving
Leftovers
Turkey Po’ Boy
2 servings
(makes two 6-inch po’ boys)
Look for French bread or
Belgian-style pistolets that
have a thin, crispy exterior and
a light, fluffy interior. Grab a
napkin. This is a messy sand-
wich.
MAKE AHEAD: The turkey,
stuffing, gravy and cranberry
sauce can all be made up to 3
days ahead.
Adapted by recipes editor
Ann Maloney from the po’ boy
at Parkway Bakery and Tavern
in New Orleans.
TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST